Mysteriously set on top of the hill and hidden from view are the romantic ruins of Usk castle. Its strategic and military position become obvious when walking around as it provides a beautiful view over the local area. No prizes for guessing that the village and river it overlooks are also called Usk.
The castle is privately owned with its owners opening the castle to visitors on Sundays between April and September for a small donation (£4 in 2025). A leaflet has been created to help guide visitors around the castle.
Join me as I discover this lesser-known marchland castle, exploring its remaining ruins and try to piece together its history which culminated in the battle of Pwll Melyn.
There is no guidebook to purchase, nor can I find one online. Perhaps getting hold of a copy of Adam of Usk Chronicles might be a good source of valuable information and knowledge. The book’s age and rarity mean this is merely a pipe dream, as the only one seen for sale is over £200!!
There are some connections between Usk castle and the ‘Three Castles’. The final military action seen at Grosmont Castle links heavily with the battle of Usk that took place here. The research compiled on Usk castle builds on the knowledge gained at the ‘Three Castles’ but leaves me in a bit of a muddle, with similar names causing much confusion. Understanding the complexities of Medieval England is hard work.
Usk castle History
The origins are hard to trace back. The Romans created a legionary Roman Fort in Usk called Burrium (around AD55). Whether it incorporated the hill that the castle sits on I don’t know. The Romans left Usk and moved to Caerleon.
The first written mention of the castle of Usk comes in 1138 where a small wooden motte and baily castle was established overlooking the town and captured by the Welsh. Much of my research is inspired from the paintings of ‘characters’ that I assume are associated with the castle’s history on the ceiling of a wooden gazebo in the grounds.
Richard de Clare aka ‘Strongbow’
Ownership of the castle at this point was in the de Clare family who were the Earls of Pembroke and Striguil (former name of Chepstow). There was a brief interlude when Hywel ap Iowerth controlled the castle. Hywel was the Welsh lord of Caerleon.
Richard de Clare, the 2nd Earl of Pembroke also known as ‘Strongbow’, built the original gatehouse around 1170. He is the first person of interest from this information ceiling. Strongbow gave the town its first charter and he founded Usk priory. He would go on to conquer parts of Ireland for Henry II. He left a son and daughter, the son died too young to take the earldom and it passed to his elder sister Isabella de Clare.
William Marshall
Isabella was very wealthy and married the famous William Marshal. His name cropped up in the ‘Three Castles’ as he and Hubert de Burgh were the most powerful men of the time. William took ownership of Usk castle upon his marriage and set about adding stone defences.
William added the curtain walls around the perimeter along with several towers. William was known as the greatest knight and solider in the realm. His battle experience gave him the knowledge to build the round keeps. The round garrison tower installed in Usk is like those associated with William at Pembroke and Hubert at Skenfrith.
Elizabeth de Burgh
By 1289 the castle fell into the hands of Gilbert de Clare 7th Earl of Gloucester (builder of the second largest castle in the UK at Caerphilly). Gilbert’s great grandfather was William Marshal. I’m not entirely sure if he was in any way a relation to de Clares who first occupied the castle. Gilbert died at the battle of Bannockburn (1314).
Usk castle passed to Elizabeth de Burgh (de Burgh the name taken from her first marriage) who was the third daughter of Gilbert. She is also there on the ‘information ceiling’. She must have had some serious history with the place. My research informs me that she poured much of her wealth into funding Clare College, Cambridge (the second oldest of Cambridge’s 31 colleges). I believe there is a link between the de Clare name and the small village of Clare in Sussex. Elizabth did go on to erect the hall block, chapel and solar (an upper chamber in a medieval building) on the northeast side.
The castle later passed to the Mortimers, a family dynasty who held great power over the Welsh marches and political eminence between the 13th and 15th Centuries. Usk Castle was one of the last castles the family acquired. The Mortimers built a wall around the outer bailey on the south with one round tower and a rectangular gatehouse.
Adam of Usk
Usk’s most prominent piece of history came in 1402 and 1405. It was also around this time that the town’s most famous son lived. Adam of Usk (1352-1430) was a Welsh priest who wrote a Chronicle covering the late 14th and early 15th century. He trained as a lawyer at the university of Oxford, before serving the Archbishop of Canterbury and King Henry IV. His chronicle covers the years 1377 – 1421 and, in particular, the Welsh revolt against English rule led by Owain Glyndwr. He is buried in the priory church in Usk.
Owain Glyndwr
After ousting his cousin Richard II, Henry IV set about quashing rebellions. The last major Welsh rebellion against the English was led by Owain Glyndwr. Owain burnt the town of Usk in 1402 before his forces returned in 1405.
After sacking the castle at Grosmont they turned their attentions to Usk. Owain’s forces under the leadership of his eldest son were defeated trying to capture Usk castle. They came up against a substantial force under the command of Lord Grey of Codnor who defeated Owain’s forces at the battle of Pwll Melyn. The defeat left 300 prisoners who were all killed at Usk Castle after the battle.
After the rebellion the castle was repaired and became a residence more than a military stronghold. The castle reverted to the crown. Slowly the castle fell into a state of disrepair. Stone from the castle was removed to build the Great House in Usk. It survived the English Civil War with only a little damage.
Usk Castle today
The final picture in my history of Usk castle from the ceiling is that of Rudge and Anne Humphreys. I’m led to believe they purchased the castle for £525 in 1933. The family open the castle to visitors on Sunday’s for a small donation. The castle can be hired for events.
Usk Castle Layout
Entering the castle is along a driveway and through a set of gates. Sitting on top is a crown and two lions. After paying your entry fee make your way along the edge of outer ward towards the castle keep.
The outer ward is now the family home of the Humphreys, and no access is allowed – understandable but a shame.
By the family house is a beautiful tithe barn there is a 13th century dovecote which looks a fine example and would add knowledge to the one discovered in Dunster.
The sign on the castle keep is dated 1170. This was the work of Richard Strongbow. After capturing a few images, I retrace my steps back to the outer edge of outer ward and walk up to the castle gate. The sign here informs me that the gate dates to around 1214 which was during Willima Marshal’s ownership.
When you walk through the castle gate you enter the inner ward. Directly in front of you is the garrison tower. I will work my way around to the tower shortly but for now I take an anticlockwise approach around the inner ward. This leads me to, in my opinion, the most valuable item in the castle – the wooden gazebo near the guard tower.
Moving around the inner ward I arrive at the northern tower. A little exploration here and you’ll find the former chapel of St George along with the banqueting hall, which the sign informs me is 1326 and the time of Elizabeth de Burgh.
From the banqueting hall you can pick up the curtain wall and walk along the top of it to the Garrison tower. The date on the sign here is 1212 which confirms is the time William Marshal installed the walls and towers to protect the inner ward. Access can be made down through the tower back into the inner ward. Sadly, this is the only section of the walls that can be traversed.
I leave behind the garrison tower and walk inside the remaining walls. A sign above a door in the wall is the only evidence of the remaining south tower. There is a gap in the walls at this point that affords two wonderful views. Firstly, the best view of the tithe barn and dovecote. Secondly, the village of Usk.
The final part of a walk around the inner ward brings me back to the other side of the castle keep where my tour first began.
Usk Castle conclusions
My visit to Usk castle was achieved by pure luck rather than precise judgment and planning. It is off the beaten track and is another tremendous place about which to learn. Medieval England is proving a great fascination and challenging learning experience. Each visit on this trip is making the call of Pembroke Castle even louder. Also add to that Temple church in London to visit the grave of William Marshal. Visits are also required to the small village of Clare in Suffolk and to Cambridge.
Simon Jenkins writes in his Wales: Churches, Houses, Castles, that Usk Castle is “everything a Cadw castle is not. It is wild, unmanicured and idiosyncratic. Where a government castle is scrubbed and tidy, Usk respects the dishevelment of age… If ruins must be ruins, let them be like this.” Meandering around the castle it’s hard to disagree with Mr Jenkins. I hope that I have inspired you to visit the castle by delving into its history and exploring the castle. If you’ve been I would love to know your thoughts, if you haven’t been I hope you will visit one day.
Love the Simon Jenkins series of books as reference tools. I have copies of England’s 1000 best churches, England’s 1000 best houses, England’s 1000 best views and even Britain’s 100 best railway stations . They take up a fair bit of room on our bookshelf but if you have space , and seeing that you are a serious blogger, I think these would be better served if they were ready to hand at your place.
My library is an ever expanding collection of books. I feel it would be beneficial to read his books, finding time and space is perhaps a greater challenge at the moment. Maybe one day in the future. Castle number 4 visited in Wales!