Owain Glyndwr

September 21, 2025

Abergavenny Castle, Museum in Abergavenny, Wales

A visit to Abergavenny Castle and museum is very pleasant and thoroughly enjoyable. It is a place marked by intrigue, deception and murder throughout its long history and is associated with Welsh Marchland castles and the English Civil War.

Abergavenny Castle sits above the River Usk, with panoramic views as far as the Blorenge, Sugarloaf and Skirrid mountains (all worth a climb). Sadly, all that remains of the castle is a small section of picturesque ruins. Imagination is required!! These ruins are hidden from sight when visiting the town but follow the signs to the entrance gates where notice of free entry assists any with an inquisitive mind.

Join me as I explore another Marchland castle. It shares a similar history to those that have been recently visited but with a couple of dramatic and treacherous events. From its very early beginnings, it was an important castle. It played host to visiting monarchs as well as being the headquarters of the lordship of Abergavenny.

Abergavenny Castle History

Abergavenny Castle was established in 1087 by the Norman’s first Lord of Abergavenny – Hamelin de Ballon. The initial castle was motte and bailey. The motte is still clearly visible. Hamelin de Ballon, along with his brother Wynebald de Ballon, founded the Benedictine Priory in the town (will explore that later).

Hamelin’s two sons died without leaving an heir, so the inheritance was passed to Hamelin’s nephew Brian Fitz Count. Brian, like his uncles, left no heir so the Abergavenny Castle reverted to the crown (Henry II who reigned from 1154-1189). This Lordship of Abergavenny was then passed to 1^st Earl of Hereford – Miles FitzWalter of Gloucester.

The lordship passed through all his sons (one of the sons, Henry FitzMiles, was killed by forces of Seisyll ap Dyfnwal – many Welsh names of the time feature the word ‘ap’ meaning ‘son of’), but with none of the sons having any heirs, the inheritance passed to the daughter Bertha.

She was already married to William de Braose who became very powerful at the result the unexpected value in the marriage. His son, also called William (there were a lot of people called William de Braose who were lords at this time – this one was the 4^th Lord of Bramber, in Sussex, and lord of a number of places including Abergavenny and even places in Ireland and France), would become the most famous family member.

Christmas Massacre 1175

During these times there was a lot of tension between the Welsh princes and Normal lords in Wales. It took a turn for the worse when Henry FitzMiles was killed in the 1160s by Welsh forces of Seisyll ap Dyfnwal. William de Braose took it upon himself to avenge Henry’s death.

William’s treachery and trickery played out at Christmas 1175. He organised a dinner and invited Welsh noblemen and, of course, Seisyll, and his eldest son, for dinner. His invitation was, nominally, to overcome their differences and find a new path to peace. Upon their arrival they were asked to surrender their weapons at the gates (why did they do that?), before entering the Great Hall.

Once inside the doors were bolted shut and instead of a peaceful dinner and negotiations, the armed men of De Braose slew all inside. Once the gruesome act was complete, William and his men rode to Seisyll’s house and, reputedly, murdered his youngest son (aged 7) and captured his wife. De Braose’s had his revenge for his uncle’s death.

Revenge 1182

The result of William’s ruthless revenge sent shock waves across the land. The massacre was not well received by the English monarchy (Henry II). The castle and lands were removed from William and passed to his son, also called William (there’s a surprise!!) who had committed the atrocious act. The Welsh sought revenge, which was achieved when Hywel ap iorweth (Lord of Caerleon) attacked Dingestow Castle (which was destroyed) and Abergavenny castle (which was burnt).

Abergavenny castle rebuilt, attacked and rebuilt

Abergavenny’s strategic location was still important, guarding the River Usk and surrounding lowland areas. The De Braose family was in favour with King Richard I (reigned 1189-199) and King John I (reigned 119-1216) so work began to rebuild the castle. A new keep, surrounding stone curtain walls, and towers were built in red sandstone. King John I visited the castle in 1215.

In 1233 Abergavenny was one of the many castles in the region attacked and destroyed by Earl of Pembroke.

After the De Braose association with Abergavenny castle came to an end, it passed through the De Cantilupe family (they married into the De Braose family) to the Hastings family in 1273. The Hastings family continued an expansion program of the castle with two western towers, a circular and a polygonal tower added. The remains of these works are what may be seen today. Some members of the Hastings family, along with Eva De Braose, are buried in the Priory Church of St Mary.

Abergavenny Castle grounds looking at St Mary's Priory

Abergavenny Castle & Owain Glyndwr

The Owain Glyn Dwr rebellion swept across Wales early in the 15^th century. As I learnt during my visit to Usk Castle, this threatened the security of the English in the region and an alarmed King Henry IV (reigned 1367- 1413). King Henry IV gave instructions to strengthen and reinforce Abergavenny castle and increase the size of the garrison.

The barbican (which you walk through first) was built to replace the original gatehouse. The then current lord was William Beauchamp. In 1404 the town of Abergavenny was besieged by Owain Glyn Dwr and his followers, but the castle was never captured or damaged. St Mary’s Priory didn’t fare as well; I shall explore this in more detail when I visit. William Beauchamp was ordered to stay at the castle and defend it and the town until 1409. The garrison included some 80 mounted soldiers and around 400 archers.

Civil war at Abergavenny Castle

In the years after the Owain rebellion Abergavenny’s castle, like the other castles visited in the region, began to fall into a state of ruin so that by the time of the Civil War (1642-1651) the castle required reinforcement.

Abergavenny castle at this time was held by the royalists, loyal to King Charles I (reigned 1625-1649), who was to visit the castle twice in 1645, trying to raise a new army after being defeated at the battle of Naseby. When King Charles I left the second time, the Roundheads (Parliamentarians but also called Roundheads by their enemies because many of them had short, cropped hair) were fast approaching, and he ordered that the castle’s living quarters be destroyed.

The back-and-forth nature of the Civil War meant that after Charles I had abandoned Abergavenny, the Roundheads made it their base a year later. The Parliamentarians were able to hold Abergavenny after the royalists attacked the castle. Two years later, in 1647, after the surrender of Raglan Castle (in 1646) had taken place, orders were given to slight the castle (make it indefensible).

19th century – Abergavenny Castle

Sat on top of the motte (the oldest part of the castle) is a conspicuous building. It is the former hunting lodge (now the Abergavenny Museum) built by the Marquess of Abergavenny (William Nevill) in 1818-19. Though a relatively modern building, it was built to look like a former medieval keep. In 1881 the castle grounds were opened to the public due to the increasing popularity of the picturesque views that were possible.

Abergavenny Castle Today

Abergavenny Castle is sandwiched between the shops of this market town and the river Usk. Abergavenny Castle is a hidden gem and loaded with history.

It is an atmospheric and historic spot for a picnic, to meet people and for kids to run about tirelessly. If kids can be persuaded to take a break from expending their energy there is much for them to learn. Some research and reading are required to understand its turbulent past but carefully situated around the ruins are numerous information boards. These provide detail on what the castle would have looked like.

A walk up the former motte is highly recommended. “Why?”, I hear you ask. The views are rewarding and you’ll find Abergavenny Museum. The museum, like the castle and grounds is free to enter, and provides much information and resources about the town and castles history.

Abergavenny Castle has similar history to other nearby castles (Usk & Three castles) visited. Its fascinating history has brought different characters to the fore and opened other avenues to pursue. I hope you enjoy visiting as much as I have.

September 14, 2025September 15, 2025

Usk Castle, “Usk’s Enchanting and hidden Gem”, Usk, Monmouthshire

Mysteriously set on top of the hill and hidden from view are the romantic ruins of Usk castle. Its strategic and military position become obvious when walking around as it provides a beautiful view over the local area. No prizes for guessing that the village and river it overlooks are also called Usk.

The castle is privately owned with its owners opening the castle to visitors on Sundays between April and September for a small donation (£4 in 2025). A leaflet has been created to help guide visitors around the castle.

Join me as I discover this lesser-known marchland castle, exploring its remaining ruins and try to piece together its history which culminated in the battle of Pwll Melyn.

There is no guidebook to purchase, nor can I find one online. Perhaps getting hold of a copy of Adam of Usk Chronicles might be a good source of valuable information and knowledge. The book’s age and rarity mean this is merely a pipe dream, as the only one seen for sale is over £200!!

There are some connections between Usk castle and the ‘Three Castles’. The final military action seen at Grosmont Castle links heavily with the battle of Usk that took place here. The research compiled on Usk castle builds on the knowledge gained at the ‘Three Castles’ but leaves me in a bit of a muddle, with similar names causing much confusion. Understanding the complexities of Medieval England is hard work.

Usk castle History

The origins are hard to trace back. The Romans created a legionary Roman Fort in Usk called Burrium (around AD55). Whether it incorporated the hill that the castle sits on I don’t know. The Romans left Usk and moved to Caerleon.

The first written mention of the castle of Usk comes in 1138 where a small wooden motte and baily castle was established overlooking the town and captured by the Welsh. Much of my research is inspired from the paintings of ‘characters’ that I assume are associated with the castle’s history on the ceiling of a wooden gazebo in the grounds.

Richard de Clare aka ‘Strongbow’

Ownership of the castle at this point was in the de Clare family who were the Earls of Pembroke and Striguil (former name of Chepstow). There was a brief interlude when Hywel ap Iowerth controlled the castle. Hywel was the Welsh lord of Caerleon.

Richard de Clare, the 2^nd Earl of Pembroke also known as ‘Strongbow’, built the original gatehouse around 1170. He is the first person of interest from this information ceiling. Strongbow gave the town its first charter and he founded Usk priory. He would go on to conquer parts of Ireland for Henry II. He left a son and daughter, the son died too young to take the earldom and it passed to his elder sister Isabella de Clare.

William Marshall

Isabella was very wealthy and married the famous William Marshal. His name cropped up in the ‘Three Castles’ as he and Hubert de Burgh were the most powerful men of the time. William took ownership of Usk castle upon his marriage and set about adding stone defences.

William added the curtain walls around the perimeter along with several towers. William was known as the greatest knight and solider in the realm. His battle experience gave him the knowledge to build the round keeps. The round garrison tower installed in Usk is like those associated with William at Pembroke and Hubert at Skenfrith.

Elizabeth de Burgh

By 1289 the castle fell into the hands of Gilbert de Clare 7^th Earl of Gloucester (builder of the second largest castle in the UK at Caerphilly). Gilbert’s great grandfather was William Marshal. I’m not entirely sure if he was in any way a relation to de Clares who first occupied the castle. Gilbert died at the battle of Bannockburn (1314).

Usk castle passed to Elizabeth de Burgh (de Burgh the name taken from her first marriage) who was the third daughter of Gilbert. She is also there on the ‘information ceiling’. She must have had some serious history with the place. My research informs me that she poured much of her wealth into funding Clare College, Cambridge (the second oldest of Cambridge’s 31 colleges). I believe there is a link between the de Clare name and the small village of Clare in Sussex. Elizabth did go on to erect the hall block, chapel and solar (an upper chamber in a medieval building) on the northeast side.

The castle later passed to the Mortimers, a family dynasty who held great power over the Welsh marches and political eminence between the 13^th and 15^th Centuries. Usk Castle was one of the last castles the family acquired. The Mortimers built a wall around the outer bailey on the south with one round tower and a rectangular gatehouse.

Adam of Usk

Usk’s most prominent piece of history came in 1402 and 1405. It was also around this time that the town’s most famous son lived. Adam of Usk (1352-1430) was a Welsh priest who wrote a Chronicle covering the late 14^th and early 15^th century. He trained as a lawyer at the university of Oxford, before serving the Archbishop of Canterbury and King Henry IV. His chronicle covers the years 1377 – 1421 and, in particular, the Welsh revolt against English rule led by Owain Glyndwr. He is buried in the priory church in Usk.

After ousting his cousin Richard II, Henry IV set about quashing rebellions. The last major Welsh rebellion against the English was led by Owain Glyndwr. Owain burnt the town of Usk in 1402 before his forces returned in 1405.

After sacking the castle at Grosmont they turned their attentions to Usk. Owain’s forces under the leadership of his eldest son were defeated trying to capture Usk castle. They came up against a substantial force under the command of Lord Grey of Codnor who defeated Owain’s forces at the battle of Pwll Melyn. The defeat left 300 prisoners who were all killed at Usk Castle after the battle.

After the rebellion the castle was repaired and became a residence more than a military stronghold. The castle reverted to the crown. Slowly the castle fell into a state of disrepair. Stone from the castle was removed to build the Great House in Usk. It survived the English Civil War with only a little damage.

Usk Castle today

The final picture in my history of Usk castle from the ceiling is that of Rudge and Anne Humphreys. I’m led to believe they purchased the castle for £525 in 1933. The family open the castle to visitors on Sunday’s for a small donation. The castle can be hired for events.

Usk Castle Layout

Entering the castle is along a driveway and through a set of gates. Sitting on top is a crown and two lions. After paying your entry fee make your way along the edge of outer ward towards the castle keep.

The outer ward is now the family home of the Humphreys, and no access is allowed – understandable but a shame.

By the family house is a beautiful tithe barn there is a 13^th century dovecote which looks a fine example and would add knowledge to the one discovered in Dunster.

The sign on the castle keep is dated 1170. This was the work of Richard Strongbow. After capturing a few images, I retrace my steps back to the outer edge of outer ward and walk up to the castle gate. The sign here informs me that the gate dates to around 1214 which was during Willima Marshal’s ownership.

When you walk through the castle gate you enter the inner ward. Directly in front of you is the garrison tower. I will work my way around to the tower shortly but for now I take an anticlockwise approach around the inner ward. This leads me to, in my opinion, the most valuable item in the castle – the wooden gazebo near the guard tower.

Moving around the inner ward I arrive at the northern tower. A little exploration here and you’ll find the former chapel of St George along with the banqueting hall, which the sign informs me is 1326 and the time of Elizabeth de Burgh.

From the banqueting hall you can pick up the curtain wall and walk along the top of it to the Garrison tower. The date on the sign here is 1212 which confirms is the time William Marshal installed the walls and towers to protect the inner ward. Access can be made down through the tower back into the inner ward. Sadly, this is the only section of the walls that can be traversed.

I leave behind the garrison tower and walk inside the remaining walls. A sign above a door in the wall is the only evidence of the remaining south tower. There is a gap in the walls at this point that affords two wonderful views. Firstly, the best view of the tithe barn and dovecote. Secondly, the village of Usk.

The final part of a walk around the inner ward brings me back to the other side of the castle keep where my tour first began.

Usk Castle conclusions

My visit to Usk castle was achieved by pure luck rather than precise judgment and planning. It is off the beaten track and is another tremendous place about which to learn. Medieval England is proving a great fascination and challenging learning experience. Each visit on this trip is making the call of Pembroke Castle even louder. Also add to that Temple church in London to visit the grave of William Marshal. Visits are also required to the small village of Clare in Suffolk and to Cambridge.

Simon Jenkins writes in his Wales: Churches, Houses, Castles, that Usk Castle is “everything a Cadw castle is not. It is wild, unmanicured and idiosyncratic. Where a government castle is scrubbed and tidy, Usk respects the dishevelment of age… If ruins must be ruins, let them be like this.” Meandering around the castle it’s hard to disagree with Mr Jenkins. I hope that I have inspired you to visit the castle by delving into its history and exploring the castle. If you’ve been I would love to know your thoughts, if you haven’t been I hope you will visit one day.

September 7, 2025September 13, 2025

Three Castles, Abergavenny, Monmouthshire, Wales

‘Three Castles’ refers to a trio of Norman castles set in the Monnow valley in southern Wales. The Monnow valley is carved into the hills of Monmouthshire and very close to the English and Welsh border. The castles of Grosmont, White & Skenfrith are excellent evidence of the turbulent history of the Welsh borderland area (known as the marchland or marches) in the medieval centuries.

After their conquest in 1066, the Normans set about protecting whilst expanding their newly acquired kingdom. The Three Castles are each of motte and bailey construction and were to protect the route between Wales and Hereford. Much of what we see today is due to Hubert de Burgh’s foresight.

Join me as I explore each of the ‘Three Castles’, cheating slightly as I drove to each one, rather than doing the 19-mile circular walking route between them. I learn about motte and bailey castles and explore some of the fascinating history of England and Wales. Each individual castle is surprisingly free to enter and now managed by either the National Trust or Cadw (a Welsh organisation protecting historic sites – cadw is a Welsh word meaning to keep or protect).

Motte & Bailey castles

This style of castle was basic in construction, relatively quick to build, and designed to intimidate. The Norman motte and bailey castles were built in strategic locations to help consolidate power and secure towns after their successful invasion.

Motte & bailey castles were made up of two structures – a motte, and a bailey. The word ‘motte’ means mound which was often artificial but sometimes on a natural formation. It was the chosen place to build a wooden or stone keep on its top. This was then surrounded by a palisade (a defensive wall of pointed wooden stakes). The height of the mound provided a valuable viewpoint out across the local landscape with the mound providing a line of defence against attackers.

At the bottom of the motte would be a protected area known as a bailey. Any palisade built was there to protect buildings as another layer of defence. In some cases, outside these fortifications there would have been a ditch or moat offering yet more defence. A gatehouse provided entrance/exit to and from the castle.

History of the Three Castles

Looking back through time doesn’t provide much evidence as to who first established the origins of the Three Castles. Possibly it was William FitzOsbern, Earl of Hereford, who instructed some basic fortifications at the sites of the Three Castles to be built towards the end of the 11^th century.

But by the 12^th century there is evidence of their existence. After a couple of rebellions, the most notable being in 1135, the then current King (Stephen) unified the three castles under one lordship known as the Three Castles.

The Three Castles in the 13th century

At the beginning of the 13^th century a name that is symbolic with all three castles is that of Hubert de Burgh. Hubert was an excellent military man and a loyal servant to King John I who rewarded him with the lordship of the ‘Three Castles’.

Hubert would fall in and out of favour with the monarchy. In his pomp Hubert was one of the most influential and powerful men in England as he took on the role of Chief Justiciar and given the title of Earl of Kent.

The ownership of the Three Castles passed to his rivals a couple of times during his ownership when he fell from grace. Much of the Three Castles we see today is the result of the works undertaken by Hubert.

When Hubert passed away the castles found their way back to the monarchy. On the throne at the time was King Henry III. Henry III completed some works on the Three Castles before granting them to his eldest son, Edward (later Edward I) before they were passed to his second son Edmund ‘Crouchback’ Earl of Lancaster (second son of Henry III).

This was the start of a lengthy association between the Three Castles and the earldom (later duchy) of Lancaster. This ended in 1825 when the castles were sold off. Henry III’s son, Edward I was known as Edward Longshanks (Hammer of the Scots, William Wallace and all that). Before his wars in Scotland, Edward I conquered Wales in 1283 with the help of his brother. A result of their success made the Three Castles and other castles in the region redundant, as the whole of Wales fell under English rule.

Last military action at Three Castles

The castles maintained an administrative position and were maintained in the years after. The Three Castles saw their last military action in 1405. A year earlier in 1404 Owain Glyndwr lead a revolt to overthrow English occupancy in Wales. He besieged the castle at Grosmont in 1405, but a force sent by Prince Henry (later Henry V – born in nearby Monmouth) defeated them. This was a prelude to the Welsh attack on Usk castle (a place I will visit shortly) a few months later which ended in disaster.

As a result, by the 16^th century, the Three Castles had fallen into a state of disuse, disrepair and ruin and never to be recovered to their former glory. Now the ‘Three Castles’ under the ownership of Cadw and National Trust provide us with an insight into their wonderful history.

White Castle

The first of the three castles visited is White Castle or to use its original name was Llantilio Castle. The castle is very remote and completely detached from civilisation. Its ruins are excellent evidence of the motte and bailey castle, although the signage and guidebook refer to the motte (inner ward) and bailey (outer ward).

It seems to be the furthest away from the English/Welsh border and the last of the three to developed. Its location may explain why it never saw any military action. Finding a safe space to park the car was tricky. A gentle stroll from the car park led me to the outer gatehouse.

White castle is now a peaceful ruin. It clearly shows the curtain wall that surrounded the outer ward. Evidence can be seen of 4 towers placed at different points of the wall along with the gatehouse. Entry is through the gatehouse. As you walk over a bridge the ditch that would have surrounded the outer ward is evident. The outer ward is now a wild meadow and perfect spot to have a picnic. It is hard to imagine the hustle and bustle that would have been here in medieval times.

Leaving behind the outer ward I approach the bridge across the moat (severely dried up after a long hot summer). Two imposing round towers help form the inner gatehouse. Upon walking through and into the inner ward it is completely derelict. There is broken gap in the curtain walls in one corner, otherwise the walls remain intact although not accessible.

In the inner ward the floor plan resembles a pear shape, with ground evidence of a chapel, hall, kitchen, accommodation and a well. There were enough facilities to make the castle habitable for previous owners. Cross shaped windows provide some views of the neighbouring countryside.

Skenfrith Castle

The second of the Three Castles visited was Skenfrith Castle, which, unlike White castle, is in the centre of a small village. The river Monnow meanders alongside the edge of the castle and was used to provide the water for the moat. In the middle of the village there is a charming church (St Bridget’s) which is well worth exploring whilst on the outskirts is delightful restaurant and hotel (The Bell Hotel) which provides refreshments and accommodation.

This castle is also now owned by the National Trust and managed by Cadw. Perhaps it is this combination of owner and manager that has been instrumental in continued free entrance. Parking can be made right next to the castle and a short walk to the entrance is made before climbing some steps into the raised earthworks of the castle.

Skenfrith Castle could be literally described as 4 walls and a keep, a quadrilateral floor plan with towers in each corner. In the heart of the castle is the remains a keep tower. All the ruins that are witnessed here are from the Hubert de Burghtenure. Upon acquiring the Three Castles Lordship he pulled down the existing castle and rebuilt the current one. Apparently, it was easier to do this than modify what was already in place.

As you enter the inner ward, you’ll be immediately drawn to the round keep tower. Hubert was a military man, and his excursions would have exposed him to castles within France at the time. The round keep was developed by Philip II, king of France, against whom Hubert battled. A visit to Villeneuve-sur-Yonne would provide evidence of Philip’s keep. Hubert gained his knowledge and ideas of building them from his visits to France. An example of the round keep a little closer to home is at Pembroke castle where Hubert’s ally William Marshal (who also fought against Philip) built one.

Round Keep looking through the North-West Tower

Grosmont Castle

The last of the Three Castles is situated overlooking the village of Grosmont. Park on the high street of the village and walk up a lane where, at its end, you pass through a farm gate to behold Grosmont Castle. Entry is made through a picturesque gate with the name Grosmont forged in and over a bridge. Walking across the bridge shows the steep ditch that was part of the castle’s defences.

Grosmont castle seems smaller than the other two castles visited. There is also a major difference in design here as a distinct hall like structure forms part of the outer perimeter. Attached to two corners are curtain walls that enclose the inner ward. Three towers and the gatehouse are situated in these walls. The walls and towers were constructed by Hubert de Burgh during his ownership. Access can be made to parts of the wall’s walkway and the southwest tower, which is a very pleasant surprise.

The construction that took place in the 14^th century is evidenced firstly by the tall octagonal chimney which formed part of the north block. Secondly there are enlargements made to the southwest tower. These would have been completed by the Earl of Lancaster at the time.

Three Castles conclusions

This concludes an unexpected exploration of the Three Castles. It has been a thoroughly enjoyable experience which was greatly enhanced by free admission to all 3!!

The visits brought to life parts of England’s history about which I was blissfully unaware. The tumultuous times of medieval England are fascinating to learn about. King John I (Robin Hood memories and buried in Worcester Cathedral), Henry III (visit to Westminster Abbey), Edward I (warfare against the Scots) were all monarchs of whom I had tiny bits of knowledge, but that has been greatly enhanced during this discovery.

Another aspect of knowledge that has greatly been enhanced is castle architecture. Motte and bailey, palisade, curtain walls, gatehouses, inner and outer wards have all been learned about on this trip. Further inspiration to visit Pembroke Castle is a must along with other marchland castles. A visit to Usk castle also seems to be essential in understanding the local history (watch this space).

So, I leave this delightful area on the border of Wales and England with a spring in my step – the Three Castles has been very educational. I look forward to exploring more of this historic local area.