Three Castles, Abergavenny, Monmouthshire, Wales

‘Three Castles’ refers to a trio of Norman castles set in the Monnow valley in southern Wales. The Monnow valley is carved into the hills of Monmouthshire and very close to the English and Welsh border. The castles of Grosmont, White & Skenfrith are excellent evidence of the turbulent history of the Welsh borderland area (known as the marchland or marches) in the medieval centuries.

After their conquest in 1066, the Normans set about protecting whilst expanding their newly acquired kingdom. The Three Castles are each of motte and bailey construction and were to protect the route between Wales and Hereford. Much of what we see today is due to Hubert de Burgh’s foresight.

Join me as I explore each of the ‘Three Castles’, cheating slightly as I drove to each one, rather than doing the 19-mile circular walking route between them. I learn about motte and bailey castles and explore some of the fascinating history of England and Wales. Each individual castle is surprisingly free to enter and now managed by either the National Trust or Cadw (a Welsh organisation protecting historic sites – cadw is a Welsh word meaning to keep or protect).

Motte & Bailey castles

This style of castle was basic in construction, relatively quick to build, and designed to intimidate. The Norman motte and bailey castles were built in strategic locations to help consolidate power and secure towns after their successful invasion.

Motte & bailey castles were made up of two structures – a motte, and a bailey. The word ‘motte’ means mound which was often artificial but sometimes on a natural formation. It was the chosen place to build a wooden or stone keep on its top. This was then surrounded by a palisade (a defensive wall of pointed wooden stakes). The height of the mound provided a valuable viewpoint out across the local landscape with the mound providing a line of defence against attackers.

At the bottom of the motte would be a protected area known as a bailey. Any palisade built was there to protect buildings as another layer of defence. In some cases, outside these fortifications there would have been a ditch or moat offering yet more defence. A gatehouse provided entrance/exit to and from the castle.

History of the Three Castles

Looking back through time doesn’t provide much evidence as to who first established the origins of the Three Castles. Possibly it was William FitzOsbern, Earl of Hereford, who instructed some basic fortifications at the sites of the Three Castles to be built towards the end of the 11^th century.

But by the 12^th century there is evidence of their existence. After a couple of rebellions, the most notable being in 1135, the then current King (Stephen) unified the three castles under one lordship known as the Three Castles.

The Three Castles in the 13th century

At the beginning of the 13^th century a name that is symbolic with all three castles is that of Hubert de Burgh. Hubert was an excellent military man and a loyal servant to King John I who rewarded him with the lordship of the ‘Three Castles’.

Hubert would fall in and out of favour with the monarchy. In his pomp Hubert was one of the most influential and powerful men in England as he took on the role of Chief Justiciar and given the title of Earl of Kent.

The ownership of the Three Castles passed to his rivals a couple of times during his ownership when he fell from grace. Much of the Three Castles we see today is the result of the works undertaken by Hubert.

When Hubert passed away the castles found their way back to the monarchy. On the throne at the time was King Henry III. Henry III completed some works on the Three Castles before granting them to his eldest son, Edward (later Edward I) before they were passed to his second son Edmund ‘Crouchback’ Earl of Lancaster (second son of Henry III).

This was the start of a lengthy association between the Three Castles and the earldom (later duchy) of Lancaster. This ended in 1825 when the castles were sold off. Henry III’s son, Edward I was known as Edward Longshanks (Hammer of the Scots, William Wallace and all that). Before his wars in Scotland, Edward I conquered Wales in 1283 with the help of his brother. A result of their success made the Three Castles and other castles in the region redundant, as the whole of Wales fell under English rule.

Last military action at Three Castles

The castles maintained an administrative position and were maintained in the years after. The Three Castles saw their last military action in 1405. A year earlier in 1404 Owain Glyndwr lead a revolt to overthrow English occupancy in Wales. He besieged the castle at Grosmont in 1405, but a force sent by Prince Henry (later Henry V – born in nearby Monmouth) defeated them. This was a prelude to the Welsh attack on Usk castle (a place I will visit shortly) a few months later which ended in disaster.

As a result, by the 16^th century, the Three Castles had fallen into a state of disuse, disrepair and ruin and never to be recovered to their former glory. Now the ‘Three Castles’ under the ownership of Cadw and National Trust provide us with an insight into their wonderful history.

White Castle

The first of the three castles visited is White Castle or to use its original name was Llantilio Castle. The castle is very remote and completely detached from civilisation. Its ruins are excellent evidence of the motte and bailey castle, although the signage and guidebook refer to the motte (inner ward) and bailey (outer ward).

It seems to be the furthest away from the English/Welsh border and the last of the three to developed. Its location may explain why it never saw any military action. Finding a safe space to park the car was tricky. A gentle stroll from the car park led me to the outer gatehouse.

White castle is now a peaceful ruin. It clearly shows the curtain wall that surrounded the outer ward. Evidence can be seen of 4 towers placed at different points of the wall along with the gatehouse. Entry is through the gatehouse. As you walk over a bridge the ditch that would have surrounded the outer ward is evident. The outer ward is now a wild meadow and perfect spot to have a picnic. It is hard to imagine the hustle and bustle that would have been here in medieval times.

Leaving behind the outer ward I approach the bridge across the moat (severely dried up after a long hot summer). Two imposing round towers help form the inner gatehouse. Upon walking through and into the inner ward it is completely derelict. There is broken gap in the curtain walls in one corner, otherwise the walls remain intact although not accessible.

In the inner ward the floor plan resembles a pear shape, with ground evidence of a chapel, hall, kitchen, accommodation and a well. There were enough facilities to make the castle habitable for previous owners. Cross shaped windows provide some views of the neighbouring countryside.

Skenfrith Castle

The second of the Three Castles visited was Skenfrith Castle, which, unlike White castle, is in the centre of a small village. The river Monnow meanders alongside the edge of the castle and was used to provide the water for the moat. In the middle of the village there is a charming church (St Bridget’s) which is well worth exploring whilst on the outskirts is delightful restaurant and hotel (The Bell Hotel) which provides refreshments and accommodation.

This castle is also now owned by the National Trust and managed by Cadw. Perhaps it is this combination of owner and manager that has been instrumental in continued free entrance. Parking can be made right next to the castle and a short walk to the entrance is made before climbing some steps into the raised earthworks of the castle.

Skenfrith Castle could be literally described as 4 walls and a keep, a quadrilateral floor plan with towers in each corner. In the heart of the castle is the remains a keep tower. All the ruins that are witnessed here are from the Hubert de Burghtenure. Upon acquiring the Three Castles Lordship he pulled down the existing castle and rebuilt the current one. Apparently, it was easier to do this than modify what was already in place.

As you enter the inner ward, you’ll be immediately drawn to the round keep tower. Hubert was a military man, and his excursions would have exposed him to castles within France at the time. The round keep was developed by Philip II, king of France, against whom Hubert battled. A visit to Villeneuve-sur-Yonne would provide evidence of Philip’s keep. Hubert gained his knowledge and ideas of building them from his visits to France. An example of the round keep a little closer to home is at Pembroke castle where Hubert’s ally William Marshal (who also fought against Philip) built one.

Round Keep looking through the North-West Tower

Grosmont Castle

The last of the Three Castles is situated overlooking the village of Grosmont. Park on the high street of the village and walk up a lane where, at its end, you pass through a farm gate to behold Grosmont Castle. Entry is made through a picturesque gate with the name Grosmont forged in and over a bridge. Walking across the bridge shows the steep ditch that was part of the castle’s defences.

Grosmont castle seems smaller than the other two castles visited. There is also a major difference in design here as a distinct hall like structure forms part of the outer perimeter. Attached to two corners are curtain walls that enclose the inner ward. Three towers and the gatehouse are situated in these walls. The walls and towers were constructed by Hubert de Burgh during his ownership. Access can be made to parts of the wall’s walkway and the southwest tower, which is a very pleasant surprise.

The construction that took place in the 14^th century is evidenced firstly by the tall octagonal chimney which formed part of the north block. Secondly there are enlargements made to the southwest tower. These would have been completed by the Earl of Lancaster at the time.

Three Castles conclusions

This concludes an unexpected exploration of the Three Castles. It has been a thoroughly enjoyable experience which was greatly enhanced by free admission to all 3!!

The visits brought to life parts of England’s history about which I was blissfully unaware. The tumultuous times of medieval England are fascinating to learn about. King John I (Robin Hood memories and buried in Worcester Cathedral), Henry III (visit to Westminster Abbey), Edward I (warfare against the Scots) were all monarchs of whom I had tiny bits of knowledge, but that has been greatly enhanced during this discovery.

Another aspect of knowledge that has greatly been enhanced is castle architecture. Motte and bailey, palisade, curtain walls, gatehouses, inner and outer wards have all been learned about on this trip. Further inspiration to visit Pembroke Castle is a must along with other marchland castles. A visit to Usk castle also seems to be essential in understanding the local history (watch this space).

So, I leave this delightful area on the border of Wales and England with a spring in my step – the Three Castles has been very educational. I look forward to exploring more of this historic local area.

May 11, 2025September 13, 2025

Dunster, Village in England, Exmoor, Somerset, England

Dunster
Somerset, Exmoor

You may not have visited Dunster. You may never have even heard of Dunster. But, I hope I can portray this small, charming and beautiful medieval village. Located off the A39 near the seaside town of Minehead in Somerset and on the northeastern edge of Exmoor National Park, it is England at its best.

Whether you have a couple of hours or can manage a couple of days it is a fascinating place to visit and the perfect base from which to branch out onto Exmoor. Full of interest and intrigue, Dunster has it all. There are around 200 listed buildings and monuments that form the village.

There are beautiful cottages, a historic castle, a desirable high street, elegant church, medieval buildings and a unique Yarn market that grace the village – what more could you want! It was once a thriving trading port before its wealth came through the wool trade. Join me as I explore this dreamy village.

The National Park Centre

The National Park Centre in Dunster is one of three located across Exmoor (the other two being at Dulverton & Lynmouth). I have found when travelling and exploring anywhere in the world, not just the UK, that these venues provide the perfect starting point to gather information, resources, tips and advice.

A visit here is made to gather information regarding the special habitats that exist across Exmoor for when one moves away from Dunster village. There is plenty to see and do on the moors. On this occasion they provided me with a useful map of the town of Dunster and some other leaflets which should inspire me to visit other places it its environs.

The road, the A396, which leads to the village from the A39, is known as Dunster Steep before it continues through the village and out onto Exmoor. The National Park Centre is located on the left-hand side as you approach the village. After my visit I leave here following my map and take a short walk towards the village before taking a footpath on my right which leads me to Conygar Tower.

Conygar Tower

To the naked eye this tower could be easily confused as part of the castle, but as one approaches or explores the village of Dunster you soon realize that this is a separate site to the castle. It still has connections to it though as it was commissioned by Henry Luttrell and designed by Richard Phelps to enhance the landscape around Dunster Castle.

Standing on top of the hill it offers views out over the bay of Minehead. Conygar Tower is circular in design, has no roof, is a grade 2 listed building and was built in 1775. It stands about 18m in height. The word Conygar comes from two medieval words: coney which meant rabbit and garth meaning garden. The surrounding woods offer a very pleasant walk up to the tower and it should be added to everyone’s ‘must see’ list when visiting the village of Dunster.

After walking up to Conygar Tower, I retrace my steps back to the main road and walk along ‘The Ball’, a narrow road that leads to a footpath. Along the way and before the footpath is reached is the chance to capture the iconic ‘picture postcard’ image of Dunster. After walking along the footpath I reach my next discovery, Dunster Butter Cross.

Dunster Butter Cross

The unknown and rather puzzlingly situated Butter Cross is found on the outskirts of the village. Once a staple of high streets in many market towns across the country they provided the people of England with a reminder of the death and resurrection of Jesus. On closer inspection you may find that this particular cross is more of a stump than a cross. This is due to its relocation from the high street to its current location at the end of a footpath.

This cross dates to the 15^th century and is referred to as ‘butter’ cross as this is where the butter would have been sold on market day. The cross could have been damaged during the years of the reformation, but again there is no proof as to when. There is also little evidence as to ‘why it was moved’ but adds a layer of intrigue to this fascinating village.

After a photo and learning about the ‘Butter Cross’, I turn left down St George’s Street and head back towards the village centre. You can perhaps guess where this street leads to by the name of it as it refers to St George’s church. Before St George’s Church is entered time was taken to turn left along ‘Priory Green’, a road which leads back to the footpath accessed previously. Instead of walking the length of this road, there is but a short distance to discover the Dovecote, Memorial Garden and Tithe Barn which are all located opposite each other.

Dovecote

This charming building is tucked away opposite the Tithe barn and walls of the Priory Church of St George. There is no evidence of when it was built but it is estimated that the building was built around the 13^th and 14^th century as it similar in design to others known to be of that period. The Luttrells did some repair work in the 18^th and 19^th century.

The Dovecote was to provide the privileged with fresh meat in the form of squabs (newly hatched pigeons) which meant that the buildings were often referred to as Pigeon houses. These buildings are Norman in design, and it was estimated that 26,000 of them were situated around England in the 17^th century. There is another example in nearby Porlock, so I will have to keep my eyes peeled when we leave this fascinating village.

Tithe Barn

Also dating back to the 14^th century, this barn was originally part of the Benedictine Priory. Sadly, very little of it remains due to several refurbs, it now serves the community. A tithe refers to an ancient Christian tradition based on Old Testament law. A tithe of 10% of the annual produce in crops was to be stored in the barn for the owners. The information board nearby lets us know that this was once part of the Dunster Estate under the de Mohuns before it was transferred to the Priory when William de Mohun established one here.

Memorial Garden

Completely hidden and sheltered is Dunster’s Memorial Garden and is probably unknown to many. It is a quiet and peaceful place and offers a chance for reflection. Access is through a small gate hinged in a beautiful archway in the tall wall that surrounds this former cloister garden of Dunster Priory.

The garden now takes the name of Memorial Garden as it was dedicated to the lives lost in conflicts.

This walking tour takes us back to the entrance to St George’s church where it is possible to walk through the graveyard, past the preachers cross and the western Norman entrance to the southern entrance.

St Georges Church

A religious building has stood here almost as long as the castle. Sadly, nothing remains of that era. You can read more detail of the discoveries made when I visited the inside of the church, here. The parish and priory church of St George is a fascinating church. The priory was dissolved in 1536 on the order of Henry VIII at the time of the dissolution of the monasteries.

It is claimed that the rood screen is the longest in England. Inside one can learn the basics about the villages’ two famous families, the de Mohuns and the Luttrells.

Leave the church to the south and come out on Church Street (also the A396) and take a right onto West Street before taking a left just after the Forrester Arms and along Park Street and head towards Gallox bridge.

North Western entrance to St George's Church — North western entrance to St George's Church

Church, showing tower, Nave and southern entrance

View of St George's church from Gardens on Castle Hill

Gallox bridge

This picturesque medieval stone bridge crosses over the River Avill and was originally known as ‘Gallows Bridge.’ Dating back to the 15^th century, the bridge was built for the packhorses to transport fleeces from Exmoor to Dunster. These bridges are apparently commonplace across Exmoor, so it is best to keep eyes peeled when out and exploring. Access to the bridge from the town side is along Park Street at the end of which are some very handsome cottages. On the other side of the river there looks to be a dead end, but those with time on their hands can pick up the public footpath to Bats Castle (an old Iron Age hill fort).

Return over the bridge and retrace one’s steps slightly and then take a right turn up Mill gardens which leads to Dunster Watermill and Castle grounds entrance.

Dunster Castle

The castle, it could be argued, is the jewel in Dunster’s crown. In the Dunster Castle blog there is detail of the two families who built the castle we appreciate today. There is little to no evidence of the castle that stood here nearly 1000 years ago but evidence from the 13^th century onwards can been seen and is worth the entrance fee. The site is now run by the National Trust.

After completing a visit to the castle, leave by the main entrance and follow a little road down to the high street.

Dunster Yarn Market

The high street of Dunster village offers a picture of ‘British High Streets’. Quintessentially English it has charming independent shops and eateries that are interspersed with pubs and hotels. No doubt little has changed in appearance in preceding centuries. The shops, food and accommodation will likely draw you in but shouldn’t distract you from the octagonal building situated at the far end of the high street. This octagonal structure, known as the Yarn Market, was built in 1609 by George Luttrell of Dunster Castle with repairs being made in 1647. It was a covered market where the sales of local broadcloth and homespun and is evidence of Dunster’s once flourishing wool trade.

This brings us to the end of the tour around the historic and charming village of Dunster. Slightly further afield are two places that also form part of the village and shouldn’t be ignored. They are within walking distance but can be reached by car.

Timber frame work of Dunster Yarn Market

English Heritage Information Board at Dunster Yarn Market

Dunster Station

One way of arriving at Dunster and avoiding all the busy roads is by a heritage steam train. Previously mentioned the West Somerset Railway runs steam trains here during the season, just like the line’s original plans. The line was an extension of the line that was bringing success to the neighbouring Watchet, so, George Luttrell, seeing its success, encouraged an extension of the line to Minehead. The Luttrells sponsored the building of the station for visiting guests, most notable polo players. Rumours are that George did not want his picturesque castle and polo grounds disturbed so the station was set a fair distance (about 1 mile) from the town centre. Goerge did invite the Maharajah of Jodhpur but was a little surprised when he turned up with his full team which included 62 polo ponies. Other players from all over the world came to play polo at Dunster and included Winston Churchill.

Dunster Beach

A fair walk from the village centre is Dunster Beach. The West Somerset railway line runs along the coast edge from Blue Anchor Station and arrives at Dunster Station. The beach on its northern side is that of Dunster beach, a pleasurable mix of sand and shingle. Views from the village are exquisite on a good day. The beach is nearly a mile and half from the village centre so is often overlooked when visits are made to Dunster. Wooden posts in the beach segregate individual sections of the beach and there is a “pill” box guarding the bay. These concrete pill boxes were built as a defence against unlikely invasions during World War II. Sadly, access isn’t permitted to these.

Conclusions

This concludes an excellent meandering to the village of Dunster. My trip was one of complete discovery, education and admiration. It began with the understanding of a church’s construction as phrases and names were better understood. It has left me with a little bit of inquisitiveness that maybe answered with a visit to the Abbeys at Bath and Glastonbury. A visit to the village’s 11^th century castle built on the initial findings of the names de Mohun and Luttrell as I discovered these families’ association with the village. The castle has been on the site for nearly 1000 years and has witnessed the great and gory history that shaped these lands. Dreamy Dunster is a picture of England, I hope that you enjoy it as much as I have!

January 15, 2019

Marvellous Mottisfont

After being let down yet again by today’s youth at my place of work, and rather than rush home to compile a report of the day’s failings, I took the opportunity to visit another National Trust property and seize the moment presented to me. Due to my location the choice was easy enough, although it meant a longer route home. The name of Mottisfont meant nothing to me, but it had cropped up on my recent visit to Romsey. Rather than study the A to Z road map, the post code was put into the sat nav and the easy 9-mile drive was made.

I left Southampton and drove past the charming Romsey which was the destination of another trip made in December which was also made to alleviate the stress caused by the same issue mentioned above. As this trip was completely unplanned, I didn’t let the fact I was only armed with the camera on my phone to deter me. I guess there is perhaps some positives to modern technology in that we are always able to capture any moment in one way or another rather just trying to memorise it.

After signing in and getting my map, I crossed a bridge at the end of which a sign said, ‘The first sign that spring is around the corner is…..’ Upon walking around said corner, I was distracted as the house dominates one’s view. Completely attracted by the house and river flowing by I began to search for the perfect spot for the obligatory reflection photo. Rather fortuitously I noticed the beautiful, white, drop bell-shaped flowers that are just starting to bloom and to which the sign referred. The snowdrops are in bloom. As the threatening clouds gathered, and the chilly wind seemed to sweep across the country, my mind thought on the never-ending talk of Brexit and my disappointment, distrust even, of politicians and the fiasco they have contrived to produce. It seems an ill wind that blows across these shores at the moment. All was forgotten, both physical and metaphorical, by the bright and wonderful distraction and attraction these flowers are. A stroll along the river Test follows the snowdrop trail.

Can it be believed that this was once a weekend family home? The size and location beggar belief. A step inside and one is immediately greeted by the family’s love affair with art. I am not yet a fan of art and I didn’t hold much hope of enjoying the visit inside, but with a cold winter wind and no sun it was a place of refuge. I enjoyed two rooms, the nostalgia of these studies, rooms full of books, old cameras, ancient sports equipment, board games, musical instruments, etc. The books always grab my attention – perhaps they are the biggest evidence of something that once was – but one in particular caught my eye. ‘Home Guard Manual 1941’ immediately reminded me of those sayings like, ‘we’re not proper soldiers’, ‘put that light out’ and ‘you stupid boy’ from the many episodes of the inimitable Dad’s Army shown over Christmas.

The former owners were clearly art fanatics. The house now being in the hands of the National Trust the tradition associated with the house has been continued. On the top floor was the first of 4 exhibitions to be held throughout the year. Surprisingly I made the walk up the large staircase to have a look. The view that greeted me was a bold green wall with 4 or 5 pony cartoons. The artist responsible for these spent the last quarter of a century of his life in Hampshire. Norman Thelwell lived in the Test Valley at Timsbury near Romsey. After looking at one I was immediately captivated by Thelwell’s depiction of these creatures and joined in with the laughing made out loud by the observers of his work. As the title of the exhibition was laughter and landscapes, I certainly had a few laughs at the brilliance of these comics. What therapy at the end of a trying day.

Apart from these adorable cartoons, Thelwell produced some gorgeous landscape paintings. Some of these scenes I recognised. One painting was of Salisbury cathedral which was the subject of another recent trip. As my route home took me through Salisbury, I thought what better than to try to find the view Thelwell used. So, as I sit and write this blog from the Old Mill at Harnham I wonder if I have found an artform or an artist that I appreciate. As work continues to bring me back this way, and there are 3 other exhibitions planned for the year, I expect to return to marvellous Mottisfont.

December 20, 2018December 21, 2018

Thanks, Bankes

On my way home from work today I was distracted by a near perfect rainbow. By the time I found somewhere to park up and get a picture of it, sadly, it had disappeared. The place where I stopped was by the river Stour just outside Wimborne. This place was new to me even though it is only an hour or so from my home. The river had clearly suffered from the recent wet weather. My lack of rainbow photo took me on a beautiful drive back to my home. That route home took me past Sturminster Newton which showed some serious flooding damage. The swollen river had already eaten up most of the local farm land and it was heart breaking to see the local area struggling.

Upon leaving Wimborne as the first stop my sat nav took me along a beautiful, tree lined road to the village/hamlet of Pamphill. I was immediately drawn to a perfect looking church at the end of this road. On parking up, I walked expectantly up the drive only to find out that I couldn’t gain access to it. The rest of the village was filled with quintessential thatched cottages. A couple of pictures taken quickly and I was on my way again.

On pulling out onto the main road I realised where I was. I was driving along the edge of Kingston Lacy. It seemed silly not to make the second visit there this year. The extensive estate is vast, and perhaps in a warmer season and along with the dog this may make for a day of good walking. The elegant house and formal gardens were home to the Bankes family for over 300 years. Loyal to their King they fought for him against the all-conquering Cromwell. Cromwell destroyed the family’s former home, Corfe Castle (blog on here to follow), during the Civil War, the defence of which was led by his wife, Lady Mary Bankes. Her husband was elsewhere serving the king. When the royal castle became uninhabitable and Sir John Bankes passed away, his son decided to build this mansion. Isn’t it funny how history seems to link with modern times, as our parliament seems to be heading to a modern civil war (of words at least)?

Imagine the uproar and cost of building a house this size in this modern world. The house, although it looks simple on the outside, gives off a sense of immense wealth. Every house that I visit in the National Trust is completely different, and that is what makes them so very fascinating. The inside of Kingston was at times dark and filled with lots of art collected by William John Bankes. It is one of the finest private collections in the country. It didn’t seem that the whole house was open and most of these places are on Christmas opening hours. There was one room in particular that caught my eye with what looked like a dining room lit up with a glorious chandelier and which had its own organ! I was amazed that this was here, perhaps thinking it looked so out of place and would have been better suited to a church.

The gardens, as always and expected, look better in the summer or autumn when they’re awash with colour. Sadly, on today’s visit everything in the gardens had been wrapped away for the winter. After strolling through the gardens, the love and appreciation wasn’t there so I trekked back to the car reminiscing over those glorious summer days, when, as always, pictures seem be easier to take in a different light. I shall certainly be back to this area of Dorset for I think that Wimborne is worthy of a blog.

November 28, 2018

Charming Cotehele

A flying visit after work didn’t do this place the justice it no doubt deserves – as a result a return to this charming place is on the cards. On a cold autumnal day and pressed for time, Cotehele delivered a warm and surprising welcome. Once again travel for work and membership of the National Trust combine to provide an excellent opportunity to visit another remarkable place around this fascinating country; this was no exception to this general rule.

Cotehele is a medieval mansion on a 1300-acre estate deep in the Tamar valley. A drive to the main car park takes you past some of the other charms of Cotehele – a working mill, a quay with a historic boat and a tea room with river views. A return will surely have to take place to visit the Victorian ‘Shamrock’, the former Tamar sailing barge. The former owners for over 600 years of the estate go by the name of Edgcumbe. This is not a name that stands out in British history as far as my knowledge goes but one that screams in my recent memory. Back in the summer I had stumbled upon mount Edgcumbe country park on the Rame peninsula – part of the great estate that the Edgcumbe once owned across Cornwall.

The medieval mansion is a beaut (better looking than the one that is located on the Rame peninsula). It sits on top of a hill providing views down to the river Tamar and the village of Calstock (a village of little importance but dominated by a towering viaduct). The house looks and feels medieval. My whistle stop tour at this time of the year allowed a visit to a small part of the house – the rest is shut down for the winter as it doesn’t possess any electricity. How fascinating to think of a home without electricity when houses these days can’t survive without it. The last Earl of Edgcumbe and owner of Cotehele lost his son in the First World War. He handed it over to the National Trust as a memorial to his son. I’m assuming that as there was no longer an heir to the estate provisions were made for it to pass to the National Trust. Apparently the National Trust has maintained the property in a time warp, and I look forward to seeing and exploring this on my next visit.

Cotehele’s other charm was its commemoration of World War One. The sheer effort in creating such a thing is to be admired and should not be ignored. I was grateful that it had remained up past the anniversary of that great event. A combination of the artist and volunteers helped to cut out 20,000 flowers/leaves to create this and they are entwined with memories from the war. It seems the 100^th anniversary of World War One seems to have brought out an artistic effort right across the country and beyond the like of which that I can’t remember seeing before, not just here. I remember seeing all those ceramic poppies at the tower of London to commemorate the start of the war and this seems to have inspired a lot more places to have something done to remember the end of it. Every village, town and city around here appears to have delivered something unique and ambitious.

A rapid look at the upper and lower gardens (these possibly have other names but such was the brevity of the visit that I didn’t get them) gave me enough enjoyment to entice me to come back and see it in its summer glory. Today it looked almost unloved as the autumn had truly taken effect and weaved its web and deprived the flowers and trees of their photogenic beauty. The pond in the upper garden looks like providing a lovely opportunity for reflections of trees and the house.

It was with haste that I left to try and enjoy the last of the autumn sunshine. Cotehele you have certainly made an impression; I shall return as you have charmed me.

Cotehele House and Mill, St Ann's Chapel, South West England, United Kingdom

August 24, 2018

Deer Dyrham

On this visit to a National Trust property I wasn’t sure what was the greater attraction-the deer that reside in the ancient deer park or the exquisite 17^th century house. Being told that the deer were in the furthest part of the park, I set off to find them on a long walk around the estate. I saw a group but too far off the path for a picture, so made my way to house. Near the house I was extremely surprised not only to find a huge herd, but to see how incredibly obliging they were to sit or stand and have their pictures taken. Brits being Brits meant we had the silly children who thought that it would be a good idea to pet them or get as close as possible for a picture.

After taking a bucket load of photos in the hope that I got a decent shot it was time to get out of the stifling heat and take a visit inside the house. Its former residents were not very famous, but perhaps had one of the best looking houses around. The house, grand in appearance on the outside, seemed normal and not too extravagant on the inside. It was mostly decorated in grand paintings of its past inhabitants, and the only thing of real notice was the sign that said only 4 humans on the staircase at one time. This modern sign was in place because the building was undergoing major restoration which meant that the staircase was supported by scaffolding. It’s remarkable how these places were even built.

This was my second time visiting this place and both times have proved to be at completely different seasons. My first visit was at the back end of the snow and heavy rain at the beginning of the year. Sadly I couldn’t explore the glorious grounds that time; I had to stick to the driveway which highlighted how steep and hilly these lovely grounds are. I knew upon my first visit that I would need to come back to explore the near 300 acres of land.

My second visit came during the heat wave that has engulfed the UK and the rest of Europe. I’m not one to complain about it being a sun worshipper but the effects it is having is startling. Is this the biggest sign that global warming is really happening? And have we left it too late to do anything about it? The heat sadly had taken all the colour out of the grass and flowers and made the grounds look almost like a desert. The formal garden would have shown the beauty of the western side of the house: sadly it looked like something from the Sahara.

After walking up the final hill to get the stunning view looking down on the house I left the impressive Dyrham, and a renovated Dyrham Park is perhaps one of the best in the National Trust portfolio?

Dyrham Park, Dyrham, South West England, United Kingdom

August 7, 2018August 7, 2018

Drake’s Digs

My latest National Trust blog concerns a visit to Buckland Abbey. On first hearing the name I expected to be visiting a religious ruin. Not doing any research into this venue I arrived to be for what was once an abbey had been converted into an elegant Elizabethan mansion.

As with most abbeys in our land they probably would have been dissolved because of the reformation during the reign of Henry VIII. This would have resulted in their vast estates and buildings being sold or passed on to the rich people of the land. It made its way into the hands of two very famous explorers – firstly, Sir Richard Grenville, until his death at sea, and then Sir Francis Drake. It was Sir Richard, who was born in the hamlet, who took it upon himself to convert the Abbey into a Elizabethan mansion before the more well-known, Sir Francis lived there. The house is picturesque from all view points within its lovely grounds; it boasts a quaint little garden which was in full bloom. The inside lacked beauty and was more of a museum the only highlight being an odd stained glass window reflecting on the life of its previous owners.

I must confess to never having heard of Sir Richard Grenville. I did some research to discover who he was. He was cousin to the famous Sir Walter Raleigh and Sir Francis Drake. I will admit to not knowing anything about Sir Richard, but, like his more illustrious cousins, he was an explorer/sea captain. The top part of the house is a shrine to his more famous cousin, Sir Francis Drake. The house gives reminders of the life that these explorers must have lived, and, oh how I would have loved to lived this exploring part of their lives. Imagine setting sail, with no apps or GPS, not knowing what was over the horizon or discovering places until then unknown. The stories they could have told or blogs they could have written. How very different to the modern explorer/traveller, where live updates, and abundance of information are available at the touch of a button.

I left this place in awe of its famous inhabitants, and curious to find out more about them. Little did I know that the one of them would be a common theme in my later explorations.

Buckland Abbey, West Devon, South West England, United Kingdom

May 21, 2018

Springtime at Saltram

My latest NT blog is of plain looking Saltram in springtime. Idyllically located on the banks of the estuary it is easily seen why the Parker family purchased the estate. The house, however, looks so plain and ordinary at first sight with no grand and elaborate designs, and strangely enough from the inside doesn’t give a view of the estuary.

Inside the house I was greeted and welcomed by a proud volunteer; he was keen to explain the greeting by the god of mercury, wealth, travel and roads who looks down on the visitor from the ceiling. From here access to the rest house is through one of 4 doors, each doorway guarded by one of the 4 elements, fire, water, earth and air.

An unaccompanied walk around the house normally allows me to do my own thing, but today it draws my attention to room wardens (or theirs to me), who seem so keen to engage in conversation about the house. One in particular talked about how the interior design is down to Robert Adams. His eye for detail is evident in everything in the house but it’s the ceilings that are the most impressive feature. Maybe a fact that confirms that not all beauty is on the outside but on the inside.

As I was informed on my visit it perhaps wasn’t the house that they were after when they brought it but the grounds of the estate. It’s hard to argue with that as I meander my way around them in glorious spring sunshine, tear drops and blue bells awash the ground like an artist’s pallet. Add to this the grass and weeds that can’t be touched so as not to ruin the spring flowers. Having read the signs and notices I didn’t jump in to get my picture, unlike the kid on a school visit. The walk along the tree path is a tunnel of green as the trees take full bloom now spring is in full swing.

Maybe with more time on my hands I may have found the river from the grounds, or taken one or bigger estate walks; instead I had to drag myself away to ensure I beat the bank holiday traffic. Sadly, I failed but consoled myself in the memories of another National Trust adventure, and a new place discovered.

Plymouth PL7 1UH, UK

April 24, 2018

Looks like a good fellow but was he married to his nuts and bolts?

This is my second blog on my use of National Trust membership. My visit took me to Nuffield Place, by no means glamorous and is well hidden but these observations did not detract from my fascination with the place. Walking along the pathway to see the house it did not grab my attention as some of the larger, more glamorous properties do. My immediate thought was that I had wasted a visit but it only proves the adage that we should not judge a book by its cover.

The house was like a time warp and, though I can’t be sure, seemed that everything was set in the 1930s. The owner died in 1963. There were no lavish surroundings, just simple living space.

My knowledge of this William Morris (I am informed there is another famous person by that name whose wallpapers feature in many a National Trust property; indeed one can visit his house somewhere down Kent way) started at zero so that this visit was educational. The family name Morris did not ring any bells with me having neither little interest in cars and none in wallpapers. Those in the know associate Morris with Morris motor cars. I was born too late to see Morris motor cars on every corner of every road in the land.

Lord Nuffield was one of Britain’s greatest philanthropists. How refreshing to hear of someone with so much wealth being so generous. It left me thinking of a world where money seems to rule everything, and confirms to my heart that money doesn’t buy happiness. Perhaps this man was happy. It is clear that he achieved a lot with the years allotted to him.

Apparently Lord Nuffield was one of the richest men in the world during his time but you would never have guessed this from a visit to his house. These days the iron lung, of which he became a principle donor, is confined to a shed in the garden. He was a successful business man, clearly a practical man (I mean, who has a workshop in their bedroom?!!?). It would appear from the house that Lord Nuffield did not do frippery. The house almost seems like it has been thrown together and suggests that the person who lived there was married to his work with nuts and bolts. I left the property with an inquisitive mind. In endowing part of his considerable fortune to Nuffield College in Oxford I feel it is high time I went to visit this place ahead of the other colleges in that wonderful city.

Nuffield, Huntercombe RG9 5RY, UK

April 1, 2018April 24, 2018

History at Hughenden

Garden View of Hughenden Manor — View from the main garden

I’m finally starting to take full advantage of my National Trust (NT) membership. Living my manic lifestyle, finding the time has been difficult to use it to the full. With the long Easter weekend there was an opportunity to get out and explore should the weather had been kind. Who would have thought that I’m becoming fascinated with history! In England we’re blessed with an abundance of history that we really shouldn’t ignore.

Until today I had never heard of Disraeli so this trip to Hughenden Manor was worthwhile. The house and grounds (though disappointing on first appearance) were crowded as there was an Easter Egg hunt under way. I will not go off on one about commercialisation of religious festivals as there was much to learn about an illustrious, though, to my way of thinking, stomach churning, creepy, former Prime Minister. There is much evidence on display to confirm my impressions. Evidently Queen Victoria thought that he was wonderful, and this is seen in a memorial in the church. And yet, in a perverse way, it is the TV series covering young Victoria’s life that has sparked my interest. It may well be, based on the numbers in the house and grounds, that I am not alone.

The house didn’t have the wow factor that some of the NT properties have that I have visited but it did have some interesting things going for it. The inside of the house was well maintained; the ground floor was mainly family pictures; in certain rooms there were inscriptions printed on the blinds. There was also a lot of information in the house regarding politics and Disraeli.

Portrait of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert in the Disraelis’ Bedroom

On the upper floor there were more pictures; these were different though as they were gifts from the queen. These could be spotted by the crown crowning the frame. The first room on the top floor has a timeline of his life. When we were there a passionate West Indian man spoke about Isaac Disraeli (his father) falling out with his fellow Jews at the synagogue and getting his children baptised into the Church of England. At the time this was a vital decision that enabled Benjamin to become Prime minister in adult life. Look around at the walls to see Disraeli quotes. Two of these appealed to me as a traveller, “Like all great travellers, I have seen more than I remember, and remember more than I have seen” and “One secret of success in life is for a man to be ready for his opportunity when it comes”.

The final stop was to look downstairs to see how ‘Hillside’ was used in the construction of maps used in World War 2. Tight, congested and overcrowded it was time to leave. It was then time to witness an adult playing stuck in the mud by parking his car on some wet ground rather than the huge amounts of kids running around. The building and gardens looked dank but then so has been the weather of late. Wait for the summer as the gardens will look tremendous.

High Wycombe HP14 4LA, UK