Tintern Abbey, Cadw, Historical Landmark, National Icon

This blog commences a change in writing style, which I hope you approve. The emphasis up until now has been on facts that have been discovered/learnt on each visit. While this part of the format is retained the visit to Tintern Abbey has highlighted a new area of knowledge.

It is not so much dates against events but the ability of the site to stir the emotions. Coupled with this is the discovery (I am not that well-read) of another era in man’s history. I learned about the renaissance in Italy and Florence and its connection and influence upon the art that I saw there. Of course, the renaissance was not confined to Italy. It became a way of life throughout Europe and almost governed the thinking of the day.

At Tintern Abbey I found out that visits made to the Wye Valley in the late 18^th century was the start of British tourism. This led to famous people like Wordsworth and JMW Turner visiting and expressing their thoughts and feelings about the place in either poetry or art. These men, along with others throughout Europe, led the period of man’s history known as romanticism.

This blog will lift the facts about Tintern but also draw on the poetic language, much of which I do not understand, that was used to describe the place. Questions will be asked; it may well be that my language becomes quite flowery. Let’s see…

Iconic Tintern Abbey

Tintern Abbey is a ‘national icon’ situated on the banks of the River Wye in Monmouthshire. It was once a Gothic masterpiece. At the time of the dissolution of the monasteries nearly 500 years ago, the abbey was destroyed, and it became a set of ruins. 200 years ago, however, dare I put it this way, romance filled the air.

Artists and poets alike composed masterpieces of the iconic Tintern abbey. Read on as I explore the site, understand its history and admire the architecture of the abbey whilst learning about the ‘beautiful, ‘picturesque’ (was this a new word in the English language back then) and the ‘sublime’.

Tintern Abbey Location

Tintern Abbey is perched on the western banks of the river Wye. Its location was first chosen for its detachment and remoteness which aligned with the strict behaviour expected of Cistercian monks.

The river Wye meanders its way through the valley and is the 4^th largest river in Britain. It runs from its source in Mid-Wales, and acts as the border between England and Wales for about 45 miles before it meets the River Severn.

Tintern Abbey’s prosperity grew under the marcher lords at the nearby towns like Monmouth to the North (11miles), Chepstow to the south (7miles), Usk to the west (15miles) and Raglan northwest (14miles).

Tintern Abbey Architecture

The traditional cruciform plan of the church is evident. The impressive nave, transepts and presbytery are clearly seen from differing angles although not all accessible.

Entrance to the site is made through the main kiosk which leads out to the monks’ living quarters which are to the north of the abbey. There are ruins of the day room, warming house, refectory, kitchen and parlour. Most of all that remains of these is at foundation level. A lot of imagination is needed to visualise its former glories!!

Between these buildings and the northern side of the nave was the cloister.

Entry into the abbey itself is through the western end of the nave. The towering gable end shows its sheer size, and particularly, of its nave. The central nave had additional northern and southern aisles at a much lower height than the central nave. The western window towers above the doors and leads to a smaller window above.

The nave consisted of 6 bays. To the northern side remains much of the external northern aisle wall but not much of the northern nave wall. On the south side the pillars and Gothic arches remain with windows above them which are part of the nave wall. The roof over the southern aisle seems to have been repaired and replaced.

The crossing towers straight up and is connected to the nave, transepts and presbytery. Sadly, this is all that can be seen from afar as metal barriers and scaffolding restrict access and views. There is no sign of any of the graves that might have been in the chapel. I am informed that these would have been destroyed during the suppression of the abbey. The tall and elegant windows remain in each of the outer ends of the transepts and presbytery.

The arches of the Nave on the southern side

Cistercian Order

This was founded in France in 1098 and born out of frustration at the lack of monastic observance in the Benedictine monastic community. The name ‘Cistercian’ comes from Citeaux (Latin, Cistercium) which was the mother abbey in Burgundy, France. The Cistercian Order follows a stricter observance of the rule of St Benedict. It is commonly associated with the wearing of white.

The Cistercian order is part of the Roman Catholic church that flourished in England in the medieval ages. The first Cistercian abbey established in Britain was in 1128 at Waverley (Surrey) with the second to be established here in Tintern. The founding of Rievaulx Abbey in Yorkshire marked the beginning of the development of the Cistercian religious movement in Britain. To delve deeper into the Cistercian order a trip to Yorkshire might prove to be necessary. The county was the heart of the Cistercian community in Britain with several abbeys close by.

The Cistercian monasteries fell from grace and favour when Henry VIII left the Roman Catholic church. The pope did not grant him a divorce and this led to the dissolution of monasteries. This in turn boosted the monarchy’s coffers.

Without realizing, I have already visited a Cistercian abbey and written about it when I first embarked on this learning journey many years ago (Forde Abbey in Dorset). I may have to revisit and stump up the money to visit the inside this time though.

Tintern Abbey History

Founding of Tintern Abbey

Tintern Abbey was founded in 1131 by Walter de Clare. The powerful ‘de Clare’ family name was discovered on a recent trip to Usk Castle. I’m not sure of the links between Walter (Chepstow) and Richard (Usk) de Clare. The early founding of the abbey consisted mainly of timber buildings, the same as the early motte and bailey castles would have been.

Kingswood Abbey

By 1139 the community was thriving, and the overcrowded Tintern was able to colonize a first daughter house in Kingswood in Gloucester. Roger de Berkeley, Baron of Berkeley and owner of Berkeley Castle acquired the land in Gloucester. Barely anything remains of the abbey in Kingswood save for an Abbey Gatehouse. This abbey is part of English Heritage is free to visit if ever you’re passing by.

Tintern Parva

In 1189 William Marshal (discovered at Usk castle) became Lord of Chepstow, through his marriage to Isabel de Clare (Isabel and her two sons are buried at Tintern Abbey) and became a patron of Tintern Abbey. William authorized the second and final daughter house of Tintern Abbey on his lands in Ireland and called it Tintern Parva (little Tintern). He had made a promise to God during a stormy sea trip to Ireland that if he remained safe, he would establish an abbey. Ruins remain here and look worthy of a visit if I can make it back to Ireland. The abbey ruins in Wexford Ireland are part of Heritage Ireland.

Roger Bigod III

In 1245 the Lordship of Chepstow passed to the Bigod family. Roger Bigod III took a keen interest in Tintern Abbey. Roger became the Duke of Norfolk in 1270 and continued until 1306. At the turn of the 14^th century he granted the abbey a valuable asset, his Norfolk manor of Acle. Roger is the man who helped to build the church we admire today. Works began in 1269 and were completed in 1301. Such was his impact on the abbey that when the dissolution of the monasteries came the monks were still distributing alms to the poor 5 times a year in repose for Roger’s soul.

Royal Visitor to Tintern Abbey

Tintern Abbey had a royal visitor in 1326 when Edward II took refuge at the house when fleeing Roger Mortimer’s army. He spent two days at Tintern Abbey.

William Herbert

In 1469 William Herbert (1^st Earl of Pembroke, known as Black William) was beheaded after the battle of Edgecote and buried at Tintern. The Herbert family was discovered in detail at St Mary’s Priory, Abergavenny (his father and mother are buried there, along with his brother who was beheaded with him).

Dissolution of the Monasteries

The destruction of the monasteries began in Henry VIII’s reign. As previously learned, this was done in two acts, the first in 1536 and the second in 1539. The monasteries owned about a quarter of the land in England.

Henry acquired a lot of wealth by removing them. Tintern Abbey fell peacefully in the first Act of Supremacy. The abbeys in northern England revolted which led to the ‘Pilgrimage of Grace’ in October 1536. In this first act small monasteries and abbeys with an income of less than £200 were closed and their buildings, lands, and money taken by the crown.

The larger abbeys and monasteries fell in the second act of suppression in 1539. Tintern Abbey was sold to Henry Somerset, the then current Earl of Worcester. Henry would go on to strip the monastery of its valuable resources. Tintern Abbey, like many other abbeys, fell into ruin.

Romantic Tintern Abbey

Tintern Abbey’s fate was to take a turn for the better in the 18^th century. A popular engraving in 1732 by the Busk brothers started it all off. Reverend William Gilpin’s best-selling account of ‘Wye River Voyage in 1770’ described Tintern as ‘the most beautiful’ scene of all and people were hooked. Whether or not his description was accurate is a matter for debate (there is a comments box at the bottom of this blog – I would love to hear your thoughts on all matters raised in this blog as well as all others).

Gilpin was a notable travel writer, an artist, a church of England cleric and a schoolmaster. He is famous for being one of the first promoters of the term ‘picturesque’. William also wrote ‘Observations on the River Wye’, which was first published in 1782. He evidently felt that the River Wye was the place to visit.

It could be argued that the early Romantics were revolutionary but the observation of events in France (the Reign of Terror) resulted in a shift towards the power of nature and the importance of the imagination. The French Revolution and Napoleonic War kept travelers out of Europe and adventurers wanted to explore the wild landscapes of Britain. The ivy-covered ruins of Tintern were to provide inspiration for poets searching for the ‘sublime’ and ‘picturesque’. This brought a flock of people to the area and as a result, British tourism commenced. The guidebook had come to stay!!

JMW Turner painting of Tintern Abbey in 1794

J.M.W Turner was a romantic landscape painter. Renowned for his oils, he became one of the greatest masters of British watercolour landscape painting. His work is now in galleries all over the world. The painting relating to Tintern is now housed in the Tate Modern in London and I must see it for myself. The painting in question shows the crossing of the abbey looking towards the East Window. He beautifully captures the elegant glamorous ruins of Tintern Abbey complete with its ivy.

William Wordsworth's famous poem (1798)

William was an English romantic poet. Along with Samuel Taylor Coleridge (he was born in Ottery St Mary in Devon, and I must go to see the superb church there and the graveyard for its Coleridge connections) they launched the Romantic Age in English literature. They wrote a book together called ‘Lyrical Ballads’ which a collection of their poems. William included his poem associated with Tintern. William revisited Tintern Abbey 5 years after his first visit and famously composed ‘Lines Composed a Few Miles above Tintern Abbey’. He describes the gentle sounds of the rivers and streams running down the ‘steep and lofty cliffs’.

Tintern Abbey conclusions

There was once a seductive allure to these mystical ruins. It was once a place of seclusion, detached from life and home to those who followed a strict devotion. Those monastic times seem a long time ago. They were a long time back and were ended abruptly. The church which provided a sanctuary was left to become a heap of ruins.

As if by poetic justice, the Romantic era, coupled with the input of a devotee to the Wye valley itself, gave the ruins a new meaning and a new beginning. People were stirred to visit these towering and overgrown ruins. The ivy crawling around pillars of stone with the sun or moonlight beaming through vacant arches, open windows and a roofless building as captured by the artist became inspiring.

My reaction on Tintern Abbey

Sadly, these romantic ruins that provided so much inspiration didn’t and don’t have the same allure for me. Yes, they’re incredible to witness. It is nice to see its roofless splendour and the towering size of a once monastic masterpiece. Imagination is also needed above ground level. Ugly scaffolding sticks to the building like a forgotten plaster. The rest of the site is a sterile theatre, a doldrum of corporate preservation and presentation.

The noisy sounds of cars passing by drown out those gentle sounds of rivers and streams, though, to be fair, Wordsworth wouldn’t have been troubled by motor cars. To be fair to myself, Wordsworth hardly described the abbey but the river by which it is located. The poem seems to eulogise the power of nature to restore and has nothing to say about something man-made like the abbey.

He seems to delight in nature itself, and one wonders whether he could have been having the same thoughts as he did in another place with his dancing daffodils. To me the people at the turn of the 18^th to 19^th centuries led much less sophisticated lives than modern man and, evidently, were inspired.

Perhaps the current works will enhance the site – they will do nothing to curb the engine noise.

Listen to me going all Wordsworth and yet describing the antithesis of the romance of the place. Am I being too controversial? Does Tintern Abbey deserve this level of controversy?

I’m intrigued to know your opinions. If you have been please let me know your thoughts. Were you romantically inspired? In a fast-changing world did you feel the urge to get your easel out? Or jot down a few words of poetry. Do you find the place pleasing on the eye?

If you haven’t been, have I inspired you to go? Has Gilpin, Turner or Wordsworth? Leave your thoughts in the comments below….

September 14, 2025September 15, 2025

Usk Castle, “Usk’s Enchanting and hidden Gem”, Usk, Monmouthshire

Mysteriously set on top of the hill and hidden from view are the romantic ruins of Usk castle. Its strategic and military position become obvious when walking around as it provides a beautiful view over the local area. No prizes for guessing that the village and river it overlooks are also called Usk.

The castle is privately owned with its owners opening the castle to visitors on Sundays between April and September for a small donation (£4 in 2025). A leaflet has been created to help guide visitors around the castle.

Join me as I discover this lesser-known marchland castle, exploring its remaining ruins and try to piece together its history which culminated in the battle of Pwll Melyn.

There is no guidebook to purchase, nor can I find one online. Perhaps getting hold of a copy of Adam of Usk Chronicles might be a good source of valuable information and knowledge. The book’s age and rarity mean this is merely a pipe dream, as the only one seen for sale is over £200!!

There are some connections between Usk castle and the ‘Three Castles’. The final military action seen at Grosmont Castle links heavily with the battle of Usk that took place here. The research compiled on Usk castle builds on the knowledge gained at the ‘Three Castles’ but leaves me in a bit of a muddle, with similar names causing much confusion. Understanding the complexities of Medieval England is hard work.

Usk castle History

The origins are hard to trace back. The Romans created a legionary Roman Fort in Usk called Burrium (around AD55). Whether it incorporated the hill that the castle sits on I don’t know. The Romans left Usk and moved to Caerleon.

The first written mention of the castle of Usk comes in 1138 where a small wooden motte and baily castle was established overlooking the town and captured by the Welsh. Much of my research is inspired from the paintings of ‘characters’ that I assume are associated with the castle’s history on the ceiling of a wooden gazebo in the grounds.

Richard de Clare aka ‘Strongbow’

Ownership of the castle at this point was in the de Clare family who were the Earls of Pembroke and Striguil (former name of Chepstow). There was a brief interlude when Hywel ap Iowerth controlled the castle. Hywel was the Welsh lord of Caerleon.

Richard de Clare, the 2^nd Earl of Pembroke also known as ‘Strongbow’, built the original gatehouse around 1170. He is the first person of interest from this information ceiling. Strongbow gave the town its first charter and he founded Usk priory. He would go on to conquer parts of Ireland for Henry II. He left a son and daughter, the son died too young to take the earldom and it passed to his elder sister Isabella de Clare.

William Marshall

Isabella was very wealthy and married the famous William Marshal. His name cropped up in the ‘Three Castles’ as he and Hubert de Burgh were the most powerful men of the time. William took ownership of Usk castle upon his marriage and set about adding stone defences.

William added the curtain walls around the perimeter along with several towers. William was known as the greatest knight and solider in the realm. His battle experience gave him the knowledge to build the round keeps. The round garrison tower installed in Usk is like those associated with William at Pembroke and Hubert at Skenfrith.

Elizabeth de Burgh

By 1289 the castle fell into the hands of Gilbert de Clare 7^th Earl of Gloucester (builder of the second largest castle in the UK at Caerphilly). Gilbert’s great grandfather was William Marshal. I’m not entirely sure if he was in any way a relation to de Clares who first occupied the castle. Gilbert died at the battle of Bannockburn (1314).

Usk castle passed to Elizabeth de Burgh (de Burgh the name taken from her first marriage) who was the third daughter of Gilbert. She is also there on the ‘information ceiling’. She must have had some serious history with the place. My research informs me that she poured much of her wealth into funding Clare College, Cambridge (the second oldest of Cambridge’s 31 colleges). I believe there is a link between the de Clare name and the small village of Clare in Sussex. Elizabth did go on to erect the hall block, chapel and solar (an upper chamber in a medieval building) on the northeast side.

The castle later passed to the Mortimers, a family dynasty who held great power over the Welsh marches and political eminence between the 13^th and 15^th Centuries. Usk Castle was one of the last castles the family acquired. The Mortimers built a wall around the outer bailey on the south with one round tower and a rectangular gatehouse.

Adam of Usk

Usk’s most prominent piece of history came in 1402 and 1405. It was also around this time that the town’s most famous son lived. Adam of Usk (1352-1430) was a Welsh priest who wrote a Chronicle covering the late 14^th and early 15^th century. He trained as a lawyer at the university of Oxford, before serving the Archbishop of Canterbury and King Henry IV. His chronicle covers the years 1377 – 1421 and, in particular, the Welsh revolt against English rule led by Owain Glyndwr. He is buried in the priory church in Usk.

Owain Glyndwr

After ousting his cousin Richard II, Henry IV set about quashing rebellions. The last major Welsh rebellion against the English was led by Owain Glyndwr. Owain burnt the town of Usk in 1402 before his forces returned in 1405.

After sacking the castle at Grosmont they turned their attentions to Usk. Owain’s forces under the leadership of his eldest son were defeated trying to capture Usk castle. They came up against a substantial force under the command of Lord Grey of Codnor who defeated Owain’s forces at the battle of Pwll Melyn. The defeat left 300 prisoners who were all killed at Usk Castle after the battle.

After the rebellion the castle was repaired and became a residence more than a military stronghold. The castle reverted to the crown. Slowly the castle fell into a state of disrepair. Stone from the castle was removed to build the Great House in Usk. It survived the English Civil War with only a little damage.

Usk Castle today

The final picture in my history of Usk castle from the ceiling is that of Rudge and Anne Humphreys. I’m led to believe they purchased the castle for £525 in 1933. The family open the castle to visitors on Sunday’s for a small donation. The castle can be hired for events.

Usk Castle Layout

Entering the castle is along a driveway and through a set of gates. Sitting on top is a crown and two lions. After paying your entry fee make your way along the edge of outer ward towards the castle keep.

The outer ward is now the family home of the Humphreys, and no access is allowed – understandable but a shame.

By the family house is a beautiful tithe barn there is a 13^th century dovecote which looks a fine example and would add knowledge to the one discovered in Dunster.

The sign on the castle keep is dated 1170. This was the work of Richard Strongbow. After capturing a few images, I retrace my steps back to the outer edge of outer ward and walk up to the castle gate. The sign here informs me that the gate dates to around 1214 which was during Willima Marshal’s ownership.

When you walk through the castle gate you enter the inner ward. Directly in front of you is the garrison tower. I will work my way around to the tower shortly but for now I take an anticlockwise approach around the inner ward. This leads me to, in my opinion, the most valuable item in the castle – the wooden gazebo near the guard tower.

Moving around the inner ward I arrive at the northern tower. A little exploration here and you’ll find the former chapel of St George along with the banqueting hall, which the sign informs me is 1326 and the time of Elizabeth de Burgh.

From the banqueting hall you can pick up the curtain wall and walk along the top of it to the Garrison tower. The date on the sign here is 1212 which confirms is the time William Marshal installed the walls and towers to protect the inner ward. Access can be made down through the tower back into the inner ward. Sadly, this is the only section of the walls that can be traversed.

I leave behind the garrison tower and walk inside the remaining walls. A sign above a door in the wall is the only evidence of the remaining south tower. There is a gap in the walls at this point that affords two wonderful views. Firstly, the best view of the tithe barn and dovecote. Secondly, the village of Usk.

The final part of a walk around the inner ward brings me back to the other side of the castle keep where my tour first began.

Usk Castle conclusions

My visit to Usk castle was achieved by pure luck rather than precise judgment and planning. It is off the beaten track and is another tremendous place about which to learn. Medieval England is proving a great fascination and challenging learning experience. Each visit on this trip is making the call of Pembroke Castle even louder. Also add to that Temple church in London to visit the grave of William Marshal. Visits are also required to the small village of Clare in Suffolk and to Cambridge.

Simon Jenkins writes in his Wales: Churches, Houses, Castles, that Usk Castle is “everything a Cadw castle is not. It is wild, unmanicured and idiosyncratic. Where a government castle is scrubbed and tidy, Usk respects the dishevelment of age… If ruins must be ruins, let them be like this.” Meandering around the castle it’s hard to disagree with Mr Jenkins. I hope that I have inspired you to visit the castle by delving into its history and exploring the castle. If you’ve been I would love to know your thoughts, if you haven’t been I hope you will visit one day.

September 7, 2025September 13, 2025

Three Castles, Abergavenny, Monmouthshire, Wales

‘Three Castles’ refers to a trio of Norman castles set in the Monnow valley in southern Wales. The Monnow valley is carved into the hills of Monmouthshire and very close to the English and Welsh border. The castles of Grosmont, White & Skenfrith are excellent evidence of the turbulent history of the Welsh borderland area (known as the marchland or marches) in the medieval centuries.

After their conquest in 1066, the Normans set about protecting whilst expanding their newly acquired kingdom. The Three Castles are each of motte and bailey construction and were to protect the route between Wales and Hereford. Much of what we see today is due to Hubert de Burgh’s foresight.

Join me as I explore each of the ‘Three Castles’, cheating slightly as I drove to each one, rather than doing the 19-mile circular walking route between them. I learn about motte and bailey castles and explore some of the fascinating history of England and Wales. Each individual castle is surprisingly free to enter and now managed by either the National Trust or Cadw (a Welsh organisation protecting historic sites – cadw is a Welsh word meaning to keep or protect).

Motte & Bailey castles

This style of castle was basic in construction, relatively quick to build, and designed to intimidate. The Norman motte and bailey castles were built in strategic locations to help consolidate power and secure towns after their successful invasion.

Motte & bailey castles were made up of two structures – a motte, and a bailey. The word ‘motte’ means mound which was often artificial but sometimes on a natural formation. It was the chosen place to build a wooden or stone keep on its top. This was then surrounded by a palisade (a defensive wall of pointed wooden stakes). The height of the mound provided a valuable viewpoint out across the local landscape with the mound providing a line of defence against attackers.

At the bottom of the motte would be a protected area known as a bailey. Any palisade built was there to protect buildings as another layer of defence. In some cases, outside these fortifications there would have been a ditch or moat offering yet more defence. A gatehouse provided entrance/exit to and from the castle.

History of the Three Castles

Looking back through time doesn’t provide much evidence as to who first established the origins of the Three Castles. Possibly it was William FitzOsbern, Earl of Hereford, who instructed some basic fortifications at the sites of the Three Castles to be built towards the end of the 11^th century.

But by the 12^th century there is evidence of their existence. After a couple of rebellions, the most notable being in 1135, the then current King (Stephen) unified the three castles under one lordship known as the Three Castles.

The Three Castles in the 13th century

At the beginning of the 13^th century a name that is symbolic with all three castles is that of Hubert de Burgh. Hubert was an excellent military man and a loyal servant to King John I who rewarded him with the lordship of the ‘Three Castles’.

Hubert would fall in and out of favour with the monarchy. In his pomp Hubert was one of the most influential and powerful men in England as he took on the role of Chief Justiciar and given the title of Earl of Kent.

The ownership of the Three Castles passed to his rivals a couple of times during his ownership when he fell from grace. Much of the Three Castles we see today is the result of the works undertaken by Hubert.

When Hubert passed away the castles found their way back to the monarchy. On the throne at the time was King Henry III. Henry III completed some works on the Three Castles before granting them to his eldest son, Edward (later Edward I) before they were passed to his second son Edmund ‘Crouchback’ Earl of Lancaster (second son of Henry III).

This was the start of a lengthy association between the Three Castles and the earldom (later duchy) of Lancaster. This ended in 1825 when the castles were sold off. Henry III’s son, Edward I was known as Edward Longshanks (Hammer of the Scots, William Wallace and all that). Before his wars in Scotland, Edward I conquered Wales in 1283 with the help of his brother. A result of their success made the Three Castles and other castles in the region redundant, as the whole of Wales fell under English rule.

Last military action at Three Castles

The castles maintained an administrative position and were maintained in the years after. The Three Castles saw their last military action in 1405. A year earlier in 1404 Owain Glyndwr lead a revolt to overthrow English occupancy in Wales. He besieged the castle at Grosmont in 1405, but a force sent by Prince Henry (later Henry V – born in nearby Monmouth) defeated them. This was a prelude to the Welsh attack on Usk castle (a place I will visit shortly) a few months later which ended in disaster.

As a result, by the 16^th century, the Three Castles had fallen into a state of disuse, disrepair and ruin and never to be recovered to their former glory. Now the ‘Three Castles’ under the ownership of Cadw and National Trust provide us with an insight into their wonderful history.

White Castle

The first of the three castles visited is White Castle or to use its original name was Llantilio Castle. The castle is very remote and completely detached from civilisation. Its ruins are excellent evidence of the motte and bailey castle, although the signage and guidebook refer to the motte (inner ward) and bailey (outer ward).

It seems to be the furthest away from the English/Welsh border and the last of the three to developed. Its location may explain why it never saw any military action. Finding a safe space to park the car was tricky. A gentle stroll from the car park led me to the outer gatehouse.

White castle is now a peaceful ruin. It clearly shows the curtain wall that surrounded the outer ward. Evidence can be seen of 4 towers placed at different points of the wall along with the gatehouse. Entry is through the gatehouse. As you walk over a bridge the ditch that would have surrounded the outer ward is evident. The outer ward is now a wild meadow and perfect spot to have a picnic. It is hard to imagine the hustle and bustle that would have been here in medieval times.

Leaving behind the outer ward I approach the bridge across the moat (severely dried up after a long hot summer). Two imposing round towers help form the inner gatehouse. Upon walking through and into the inner ward it is completely derelict. There is broken gap in the curtain walls in one corner, otherwise the walls remain intact although not accessible.

In the inner ward the floor plan resembles a pear shape, with ground evidence of a chapel, hall, kitchen, accommodation and a well. There were enough facilities to make the castle habitable for previous owners. Cross shaped windows provide some views of the neighbouring countryside.

Skenfrith Castle

The second of the Three Castles visited was Skenfrith Castle, which, unlike White castle, is in the centre of a small village. The river Monnow meanders alongside the edge of the castle and was used to provide the water for the moat. In the middle of the village there is a charming church (St Bridget’s) which is well worth exploring whilst on the outskirts is delightful restaurant and hotel (The Bell Hotel) which provides refreshments and accommodation.

This castle is also now owned by the National Trust and managed by Cadw. Perhaps it is this combination of owner and manager that has been instrumental in continued free entrance. Parking can be made right next to the castle and a short walk to the entrance is made before climbing some steps into the raised earthworks of the castle.

Skenfrith Castle could be literally described as 4 walls and a keep, a quadrilateral floor plan with towers in each corner. In the heart of the castle is the remains a keep tower. All the ruins that are witnessed here are from the Hubert de Burghtenure. Upon acquiring the Three Castles Lordship he pulled down the existing castle and rebuilt the current one. Apparently, it was easier to do this than modify what was already in place.

As you enter the inner ward, you’ll be immediately drawn to the round keep tower. Hubert was a military man, and his excursions would have exposed him to castles within France at the time. The round keep was developed by Philip II, king of France, against whom Hubert battled. A visit to Villeneuve-sur-Yonne would provide evidence of Philip’s keep. Hubert gained his knowledge and ideas of building them from his visits to France. An example of the round keep a little closer to home is at Pembroke castle where Hubert’s ally William Marshal (who also fought against Philip) built one.

Round Keep looking through the North-West Tower

Grosmont Castle

The last of the Three Castles is situated overlooking the village of Grosmont. Park on the high street of the village and walk up a lane where, at its end, you pass through a farm gate to behold Grosmont Castle. Entry is made through a picturesque gate with the name Grosmont forged in and over a bridge. Walking across the bridge shows the steep ditch that was part of the castle’s defences.

Grosmont castle seems smaller than the other two castles visited. There is also a major difference in design here as a distinct hall like structure forms part of the outer perimeter. Attached to two corners are curtain walls that enclose the inner ward. Three towers and the gatehouse are situated in these walls. The walls and towers were constructed by Hubert de Burgh during his ownership. Access can be made to parts of the wall’s walkway and the southwest tower, which is a very pleasant surprise.

The construction that took place in the 14^th century is evidenced firstly by the tall octagonal chimney which formed part of the north block. Secondly there are enlargements made to the southwest tower. These would have been completed by the Earl of Lancaster at the time.

Three Castles conclusions

This concludes an unexpected exploration of the Three Castles. It has been a thoroughly enjoyable experience which was greatly enhanced by free admission to all 3!!

The visits brought to life parts of England’s history about which I was blissfully unaware. The tumultuous times of medieval England are fascinating to learn about. King John I (Robin Hood memories and buried in Worcester Cathedral), Henry III (visit to Westminster Abbey), Edward I (warfare against the Scots) were all monarchs of whom I had tiny bits of knowledge, but that has been greatly enhanced during this discovery.

Another aspect of knowledge that has greatly been enhanced is castle architecture. Motte and bailey, palisade, curtain walls, gatehouses, inner and outer wards have all been learned about on this trip. Further inspiration to visit Pembroke Castle is a must along with other marchland castles. A visit to Usk castle also seems to be essential in understanding the local history (watch this space).

So, I leave this delightful area on the border of Wales and England with a spring in my step – the Three Castles has been very educational. I look forward to exploring more of this historic local area.