Tintern Abbey, Cadw, Historical Landmark, National Icon

This blog commences a change in writing style, which I hope you approve. The emphasis up until now has been on facts that have been discovered/learnt on each visit. While this part of the format is retained the visit to Tintern Abbey has highlighted a new area of knowledge.

It is not so much dates against events but the ability of the site to stir the emotions. Coupled with this is the discovery (I am not that well-read) of another era in man’s history. I learned about the renaissance in Italy and Florence and its connection and influence upon the art that I saw there. Of course, the renaissance was not confined to Italy. It became a way of life throughout Europe and almost governed the thinking of the day.

At Tintern Abbey I found out that visits made to the Wye Valley in the late 18^th century was the start of British tourism. This led to famous people like Wordsworth and JMW Turner visiting and expressing their thoughts and feelings about the place in either poetry or art. These men, along with others throughout Europe, led the period of man’s history known as romanticism.

This blog will lift the facts about Tintern but also draw on the poetic language, much of which I do not understand, that was used to describe the place. Questions will be asked; it may well be that my language becomes quite flowery. Let’s see…

Iconic Tintern Abbey

Tintern Abbey is a ‘national icon’ situated on the banks of the River Wye in Monmouthshire. It was once a Gothic masterpiece. At the time of the dissolution of the monasteries nearly 500 years ago, the abbey was destroyed, and it became a set of ruins. 200 years ago, however, dare I put it this way, romance filled the air.

Artists and poets alike composed masterpieces of the iconic Tintern abbey. Read on as I explore the site, understand its history and admire the architecture of the abbey whilst learning about the ‘beautiful, ‘picturesque’ (was this a new word in the English language back then) and the ‘sublime’.

Tintern Abbey Location

Tintern Abbey is perched on the western banks of the river Wye. Its location was first chosen for its detachment and remoteness which aligned with the strict behaviour expected of Cistercian monks.

The river Wye meanders its way through the valley and is the 4^th largest river in Britain. It runs from its source in Mid-Wales, and acts as the border between England and Wales for about 45 miles before it meets the River Severn.

Tintern Abbey’s prosperity grew under the marcher lords at the nearby towns like Monmouth to the North (11miles), Chepstow to the south (7miles), Usk to the west (15miles) and Raglan northwest (14miles).

Tintern Abbey Architecture

The traditional cruciform plan of the church is evident. The impressive nave, transepts and presbytery are clearly seen from differing angles although not all accessible.

Entrance to the site is made through the main kiosk which leads out to the monks’ living quarters which are to the north of the abbey. There are ruins of the day room, warming house, refectory, kitchen and parlour. Most of all that remains of these is at foundation level. A lot of imagination is needed to visualise its former glories!!

Between these buildings and the northern side of the nave was the cloister.

Entry into the abbey itself is through the western end of the nave. The towering gable end shows its sheer size, and particularly, of its nave. The central nave had additional northern and southern aisles at a much lower height than the central nave. The western window towers above the doors and leads to a smaller window above.

The nave consisted of 6 bays. To the northern side remains much of the external northern aisle wall but not much of the northern nave wall. On the south side the pillars and Gothic arches remain with windows above them which are part of the nave wall. The roof over the southern aisle seems to have been repaired and replaced.

The crossing towers straight up and is connected to the nave, transepts and presbytery. Sadly, this is all that can be seen from afar as metal barriers and scaffolding restrict access and views. There is no sign of any of the graves that might have been in the chapel. I am informed that these would have been destroyed during the suppression of the abbey. The tall and elegant windows remain in each of the outer ends of the transepts and presbytery.

The arches of the Nave on the southern side

Cistercian Order

This was founded in France in 1098 and born out of frustration at the lack of monastic observance in the Benedictine monastic community. The name ‘Cistercian’ comes from Citeaux (Latin, Cistercium) which was the mother abbey in Burgundy, France. The Cistercian Order follows a stricter observance of the rule of St Benedict. It is commonly associated with the wearing of white.

The Cistercian order is part of the Roman Catholic church that flourished in England in the medieval ages. The first Cistercian abbey established in Britain was in 1128 at Waverley (Surrey) with the second to be established here in Tintern. The founding of Rievaulx Abbey in Yorkshire marked the beginning of the development of the Cistercian religious movement in Britain. To delve deeper into the Cistercian order a trip to Yorkshire might prove to be necessary. The county was the heart of the Cistercian community in Britain with several abbeys close by.

The Cistercian monasteries fell from grace and favour when Henry VIII left the Roman Catholic church. The pope did not grant him a divorce and this led to the dissolution of monasteries. This in turn boosted the monarchy’s coffers.

Without realizing, I have already visited a Cistercian abbey and written about it when I first embarked on this learning journey many years ago (Forde Abbey in Dorset). I may have to revisit and stump up the money to visit the inside this time though.

Tintern Abbey History

Founding of Tintern Abbey

Tintern Abbey was founded in 1131 by Walter de Clare. The powerful ‘de Clare’ family name was discovered on a recent trip to Usk Castle. I’m not sure of the links between Walter (Chepstow) and Richard (Usk) de Clare. The early founding of the abbey consisted mainly of timber buildings, the same as the early motte and bailey castles would have been.

Kingswood Abbey

By 1139 the community was thriving, and the overcrowded Tintern was able to colonize a first daughter house in Kingswood in Gloucester. Roger de Berkeley, Baron of Berkeley and owner of Berkeley Castle acquired the land in Gloucester. Barely anything remains of the abbey in Kingswood save for an Abbey Gatehouse. This abbey is part of English Heritage is free to visit if ever you’re passing by.

Tintern Parva

In 1189 William Marshal (discovered at Usk castle) became Lord of Chepstow, through his marriage to Isabel de Clare (Isabel and her two sons are buried at Tintern Abbey) and became a patron of Tintern Abbey. William authorized the second and final daughter house of Tintern Abbey on his lands in Ireland and called it Tintern Parva (little Tintern). He had made a promise to God during a stormy sea trip to Ireland that if he remained safe, he would establish an abbey. Ruins remain here and look worthy of a visit if I can make it back to Ireland. The abbey ruins in Wexford Ireland are part of Heritage Ireland.

Roger Bigod III

In 1245 the Lordship of Chepstow passed to the Bigod family. Roger Bigod III took a keen interest in Tintern Abbey. Roger became the Duke of Norfolk in 1270 and continued until 1306. At the turn of the 14^th century he granted the abbey a valuable asset, his Norfolk manor of Acle. Roger is the man who helped to build the church we admire today. Works began in 1269 and were completed in 1301. Such was his impact on the abbey that when the dissolution of the monasteries came the monks were still distributing alms to the poor 5 times a year in repose for Roger’s soul.

Royal Visitor to Tintern Abbey

Tintern Abbey had a royal visitor in 1326 when Edward II took refuge at the house when fleeing Roger Mortimer’s army. He spent two days at Tintern Abbey.

William Herbert

In 1469 William Herbert (1^st Earl of Pembroke, known as Black William) was beheaded after the battle of Edgecote and buried at Tintern. The Herbert family was discovered in detail at St Mary’s Priory, Abergavenny (his father and mother are buried there, along with his brother who was beheaded with him).

Dissolution of the Monasteries

The destruction of the monasteries began in Henry VIII’s reign. As previously learned, this was done in two acts, the first in 1536 and the second in 1539. The monasteries owned about a quarter of the land in England.

Henry acquired a lot of wealth by removing them. Tintern Abbey fell peacefully in the first Act of Supremacy. The abbeys in northern England revolted which led to the ‘Pilgrimage of Grace’ in October 1536. In this first act small monasteries and abbeys with an income of less than £200 were closed and their buildings, lands, and money taken by the crown.

The larger abbeys and monasteries fell in the second act of suppression in 1539. Tintern Abbey was sold to Henry Somerset, the then current Earl of Worcester. Henry would go on to strip the monastery of its valuable resources. Tintern Abbey, like many other abbeys, fell into ruin.

Romantic Tintern Abbey

Tintern Abbey’s fate was to take a turn for the better in the 18^th century. A popular engraving in 1732 by the Busk brothers started it all off. Reverend William Gilpin’s best-selling account of ‘Wye River Voyage in 1770’ described Tintern as ‘the most beautiful’ scene of all and people were hooked. Whether or not his description was accurate is a matter for debate (there is a comments box at the bottom of this blog – I would love to hear your thoughts on all matters raised in this blog as well as all others).

Gilpin was a notable travel writer, an artist, a church of England cleric and a schoolmaster. He is famous for being one of the first promoters of the term ‘picturesque’. William also wrote ‘Observations on the River Wye’, which was first published in 1782. He evidently felt that the River Wye was the place to visit.

It could be argued that the early Romantics were revolutionary but the observation of events in France (the Reign of Terror) resulted in a shift towards the power of nature and the importance of the imagination. The French Revolution and Napoleonic War kept travelers out of Europe and adventurers wanted to explore the wild landscapes of Britain. The ivy-covered ruins of Tintern were to provide inspiration for poets searching for the ‘sublime’ and ‘picturesque’. This brought a flock of people to the area and as a result, British tourism commenced. The guidebook had come to stay!!

JMW Turner painting of Tintern Abbey in 1794

J.M.W Turner was a romantic landscape painter. Renowned for his oils, he became one of the greatest masters of British watercolour landscape painting. His work is now in galleries all over the world. The painting relating to Tintern is now housed in the Tate Modern in London and I must see it for myself. The painting in question shows the crossing of the abbey looking towards the East Window. He beautifully captures the elegant glamorous ruins of Tintern Abbey complete with its ivy.

William Wordsworth's famous poem (1798)

William was an English romantic poet. Along with Samuel Taylor Coleridge (he was born in Ottery St Mary in Devon, and I must go to see the superb church there and the graveyard for its Coleridge connections) they launched the Romantic Age in English literature. They wrote a book together called ‘Lyrical Ballads’ which a collection of their poems. William included his poem associated with Tintern. William revisited Tintern Abbey 5 years after his first visit and famously composed ‘Lines Composed a Few Miles above Tintern Abbey’. He describes the gentle sounds of the rivers and streams running down the ‘steep and lofty cliffs’.

Tintern Abbey conclusions

There was once a seductive allure to these mystical ruins. It was once a place of seclusion, detached from life and home to those who followed a strict devotion. Those monastic times seem a long time ago. They were a long time back and were ended abruptly. The church which provided a sanctuary was left to become a heap of ruins.

As if by poetic justice, the Romantic era, coupled with the input of a devotee to the Wye valley itself, gave the ruins a new meaning and a new beginning. People were stirred to visit these towering and overgrown ruins. The ivy crawling around pillars of stone with the sun or moonlight beaming through vacant arches, open windows and a roofless building as captured by the artist became inspiring.

My reaction on Tintern Abbey

Sadly, these romantic ruins that provided so much inspiration didn’t and don’t have the same allure for me. Yes, they’re incredible to witness. It is nice to see its roofless splendour and the towering size of a once monastic masterpiece. Imagination is also needed above ground level. Ugly scaffolding sticks to the building like a forgotten plaster. The rest of the site is a sterile theatre, a doldrum of corporate preservation and presentation.

The noisy sounds of cars passing by drown out those gentle sounds of rivers and streams, though, to be fair, Wordsworth wouldn’t have been troubled by motor cars. To be fair to myself, Wordsworth hardly described the abbey but the river by which it is located. The poem seems to eulogise the power of nature to restore and has nothing to say about something man-made like the abbey.

He seems to delight in nature itself, and one wonders whether he could have been having the same thoughts as he did in another place with his dancing daffodils. To me the people at the turn of the 18^th to 19^th centuries led much less sophisticated lives than modern man and, evidently, were inspired.

Perhaps the current works will enhance the site – they will do nothing to curb the engine noise.

Listen to me going all Wordsworth and yet describing the antithesis of the romance of the place. Am I being too controversial? Does Tintern Abbey deserve this level of controversy?

I’m intrigued to know your opinions. If you have been please let me know your thoughts. Were you romantically inspired? In a fast-changing world did you feel the urge to get your easel out? Or jot down a few words of poetry. Do you find the place pleasing on the eye?

If you haven’t been, have I inspired you to go? Has Gilpin, Turner or Wordsworth? Leave your thoughts in the comments below….

October 22, 2024April 28, 2025

Coronation Church, Westminster Abbey, London, UK

Blog writing is a journey. What may have started as a set of reports about trips made to many destinations has developed. Speaking generally – to write about a trip to a place with a sunny climate to spend time on the beach presents no real challenge and this was realised early in the journey, but, with increased age, an awareness and pursuit of delightful places to explore, observations to be made, history to be learnt, etc., has happened. This has not been by chance but by design.

London is not a sun seeker’s destination – certainly not in April. Not too many beaches there either but, with care, the mind can be broadened by a trip there. By now seasoned followers will have gathered that a long list of London landmarks that I would love to see has been formulated. In this blog I try to explore and investigate an architectural wonder but on walking away from the site I have a thousand more questions than I had when I entered. That’s not a bad thing. It is good to question.

Now, I am not averse to entering a church, abbey or cathedral. I find them good places to calm down and contemplate life. Often, I am there alone with my thoughts but on this occasion (as was the case in July 2022 at St Paul’s cathedral) I was there with my father. He, like me, was bowled over by the fact that a timed entrance slot had to be pre-booked and further surprised to see so many people inside Westminster Abbey. There were significantly more people inside this building than there were in the height of summer at its neighbour on the hill. This was the first difference but, immediately on entering, our minds raced back to our previous experience together (I paid for him that time as well!!) and noted each further difference with each step that was taken as we were shepherded on a one-way system around the building. It was all rather regimented but necessary due to the volume of foot traffic.

Perhaps it was the phenomenal number of things to see, the multitude of tombs/memorials of/to famous people to locate and the number of visitors sharing the experience with us that contributed to a feeling of confusion. I was completely baffled by it all and I don’t think that my dad was too far behind me (I refer to his feelings rather than his walking pace!!).

The building is very famous, strikingly beautiful and massively interesting. To me it was an intriguing and beguiling place. To us Brits there seems to be a lack of appreciation or willingness to visit such iconic places but to foreign tourists, there appears to be incredible levels of fascination. The ‘abbey’ is situated in the heart of central London, in the city of Westminster (some people refer to Westminster as one of its boroughs, however, I call it one of London’s two cities) and a short walk from the River Thames. It stands
proudly alongside the Houses of Parliament with the Supreme Court nearby. The first question I have is – is there a link between all three? It is left open ended as I search for the answer to this and many other questions.

We in England, and I speak generally, associate what transpires at Westminster Abbey as the apparent religious heartbeat of the nation. Perhaps even this statement is a basis for debate. This was my first visit inside the building and, possibly my father’s first as well (he may have been taken inside the building as young lad by my grandfather but that would have taken many years ago!!). Both of us had witnessed (via the TV!!) special occasions with people dressed appropriately and ushered to a set place according to a
seating plan and not one of them wearing headphones. The pomp and circumstance of these occasions are manifest in a carefully scripted programme that leaves the TV viewer, to our minds, focused on the people involved, the music that is played, the words that are spoken/sung and the way they are delivered, the colour, the pageantry, the precision, etc., rather than the surroundings. Now we saw the building from a different angle alongside people from all over the world and there are no complaints. The experience was not to be missed and thoroughly enjoyed. The trip to St Paul’s was on a Friday, I believe. This was a Saturday. Did the change in the day of our visits have anything to do with the marked difference in footfalls? Perhaps that is something to be considered ahead of a return visit.

From my point of view the experience was eye opening, sometimes jaw dropping but a rather confusing visit. There was no dome that required craned necks to see the inner detail and then to climb to stand on it and view London from a never-before-seen angle. There was no crypt that we found that housed memorials to the famous and noble. And yet there were plenty of ornate memorials to kings and queens that were above ground so to speak. Notwithstanding the beauty and the splendour of the things seen, I came away with a range of thought-provoking observations.

Church, Abbey or Cathedral?

You may question this question as there is a clue in the name. Westminster Abbey is in fact its historical name or should I say nickname. So no, it is not an abbey. Confused? Bear with me. I’m sure we’re well aware of the reformation during the reign of Henry VIII, where he famously broke away from the Roman Catholic church though not for the same reasons as, say, Martin Luther. He and others ruthlessly ravaged, and destroyed and dissolved many of this country’s abbeys, and took a lot of their wealth and land. When we picture an abbey we see romantic ruins and not a perfectly kept building. Maybe Westminster Abbey survived the iconoclasm of the 16th century due to its incredible royal connections and the fact that Henry VIII’s father, Henry VII, is buried here. I’m led to believe that it was re-founded as a cathedral after those dissolution days and spent a few years changing back and forth from an abbey to a church, but when Elizabeth I acceded the throne over ten years after her father died, she made it a church and a royal peculiar and it has remained such ever since. So contrary to its name, it’s neither abbey nor cathedral. There is a Westminster Cathedral but that it is another building a little further down the street. Westminster Abbey is, in fact, a church and it’s real name is Collegiate Church of St Peter at Westminster. That begs another question – what is a collegiate church? Let us consider this new term that I have encountered.

Royal Peculiar

For the next part of this blog, I had to resort to reading books and guides (which is not a bad thing) as it soon became clear after the visit that I understood very little about what I had seen. My father has lived significantly longer than I and is equally not averse to entering churches recognizing in them places to learn, among other things, about our rich history. He had never heard of ‘Royal particular’ either. What is one of these? The questions were coming thick and fast and the desire and need to learn came with them.
Much, if not all, of this knowledge is gleaned from reading books and guides. This church is owned by the monarch. It is another jewel in his crown and possibly the reason for it being so impeccably maintained. I am not yet able to understand the workings of the church of England. Perhaps after some really serious studying I can explore this in a separate blog. All we need to know is that this church doesn’t belong to a diocese (areas of the country in the care of a bishop) or answer to any bishop but instead to the monarch. This means that the Dean of Westminster runs the show and not a bishop. The Dean of Westminster features in the ceremonial occasions that take place at this prestigious building. Here’s another question I have to investigate – what is the difference between a dean and a bishop, an archbishop even, for the archbishop of Canterbury performs most royal ceremonies at Westminster Abbey?

Mausoleum?

For a layman it is hard to see how this is a place of worship. I would hazard a guess that the majority of visits are made to look at the graves to learn about English history and to admire the architecture rather than worship God. To be fair, that was the purpose of our visit and we were in no way disappointed. It was staggering to learn that over 3000 people are buried in the abbey and there seemed to be countless other memorials that occupy the available space. Upon entering the building, one feels small and dwarfed, a forgotten person, a mere mortal as the great marble statues of illustrious 18th & 19th century prime ministers loom high above the recent entrant in the reception area. There was a statue of Disraeli – his form is hard to miss. I remember seeing a statue of Robert Peel. There was a monument to William Pitt. These are perhaps excessive and over the top, but best sum up, in my opinion, the nature of the place. The presence of these statues be the confirmation of the political and religious links of the two neighbours. As one is borne along with the crowd, it is vital to constantly look down, up, left, and right, as with each step a grave or monument is seen and it is easy to memorials to really famous people. Stephen Hawking’s grave is a particular favourite of many of the visitors to the church. My own fascination is with the former monarchs of the land. At the very centre of the church is the resting place of Edward the Confessor. He was perhaps not laid to rest in this place as he was moved several times, and he was believed to be responsible for miracles and favoured by God. Edward the Confessor is surrounded by 5 kings and 4 queens. He is now laid to rest in St Edwards the Confessor’s Chapel. He died in early 1066 and his death triggered the events that led up to what we know affectionately as ‘1066 and all that’.

Henry VII Lady Chapel

To the east of Confessor’s chapel is the jaw dropping and glorious Lady Chapel. A truly spectacular and astonishing architectural achievement. Calling it splendid doesn’t do it justice – it is that sublime. I can’t recall ever walking into a place and being so amazed at what I saw. For a moment, a lengthy one at that, I was completely spell bound. The level of detail and expense put into such a place can see why it was described in 1545 as ‘the wonder of the entire world’ and a century later as ‘one of the stateliest and daintiest monuments of Europe.’ Questions flooded into the mind – what is a lady chapel? Why at the east end of the building? Why behind the main altar? Why are most churches built on an east west axis? How did the people back in the 15 th century construct these buildings (I refer to the fabulous fan vaulting in particular)? I am told that the lady chapel is built in perpendicular style (what does this mean?) with its most striking feature its fan vaulted ceiling. I hope the pictures do it justice. The flags add tremendous colour to the perfectly crafted yellow looking stone. Is this next sentence too strong? I implore you to visit it yourself. It is truly magnificent. There are a further 15 kings and queens buried in here alone, including Henry VII and his wife, Elizabeth I and her sister queen Mary.

Coronation Church

The recent coronation of King Charles III was the 40th to have taken place in the church and provided further incredible evidence of our long-standing traditions. This dates back to the first coronation taking place at Westminster Abbey on December 25th 1066 (funny day to choose but maybe Christmas was celebrated in the same way or on the same day back then) when William the Conqueror decided to reinforce his claim to the throne. All the future monarchs have taken the oath here apart from two, the boy king (Edward VI) and the king who abdicated (Edward VIII). There are, no doubt, many tales of these coronations where it was not the perfect spectacle that we witnessed (albeit by TV) in May 2023. Thinking of the previous coronation on June 2nd 1953, my father wasn’t even born and, though there is footage of the events of that day (it was very wet outside I was told by an aged aunt), these seem to be of the placing of the crown upon Queen Elizabeth’s head and not of the rather weird parts of the ceremony that lead up to the crowning event. That day taught me a lot via the TV screen. I am still confused in that during the coronation ceremony it was not the dean, head (if that is the right term) of the most important church in the land, but the Archbishop of Canterbury who placed the crown upon Charles’s head. As we know, the coronation uses one of the most famous pieces of furniture in the world. It is over 700 years old and can be seen in a corner of the church, well protected by surrounding glass. This was removed during World War II when London was under attack from the air in the Blitz and taken to Gloucester cathedral and, no doubt,
stored in the crypt there.

Gothic Masterpiece

Construction of the church that we see today began in the 13 th century by Henry III when he decided to rebuild the church that had been raised under Edward the Confessor’s direction. He laid the foundations before running out of money!! The church was not finished when he died. The building is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture but what does this mean? Similar great projects were underway across medieval Britain and Europe in the middle of the 13th Century. The lady chapel was not started until the early part of the 16th Century and took 10 years to complete some six years after Henry VII died and his charismatic son assumed the throne. General observations I’m always in awe of the arches, the stained-glass windows (did we see many of these at either St Paul’s or Westminster Abbey?), the monumental tombs and ceilings that adorn the many churches and cathedrals in our land. There are terms which I still do not understand – it seems like a different language is used in these places and, by this, I mean all Church of England buildings that I have visited, and others as yet not seen – but I will find out. Whether I remember them or not is another matter. For some examples, what is a reredos (how is it even pronounced?)? What is a chancel (the spell checker wants to put in the word chance!!)? What does it mean? Where is it located? A nave? A transept? A misericord? A cathedra? A quire? A rood screen? The pelican in her piety? The lamb with the flag? The green man? The list is lengthy and this does not contain questions about other people who run these churches and cathedrals.

This building is a masterpiece but is by no means the only architectural wonder in Britain. Arches, both small and large, are spread in perfect unison from north to south side. Stained-glass windows adorn spaces along with windows providing natural light. Some of these were made in medieval times. Presumably the golden coloured dividing structure between nave and quire (?) and adorned with a memorial to Sir Isaac Newton to one side of the part that faces west is the rood screen, but it is quite unlike the beautifully carved wooden though narrower ones that are prevalent in churches throughout the land. Almost everything is confusing despite its undoubted beauty. The lady chapel is the jewel in this crown though the rood screen (I call it this not knowing if I use the right term) is marvellous. I am left thinking that if the fan vaulting has been made these 500 years or more, what could we construct in 2024 that looked anywhere near as nice and that would stand the test of time.

Another London landmark seen and many more to go – watch out for the next one! Coronation church is certainly a favourite.

Conclusions

This is starting to read like a report now but my (our) visit challenged me (us) to look beyond the narrative and explore what I was seeing. I hope that I have raised some interesting thoughts about this place and lesser places like it and perhaps inspired you to get out and explore. I’ve learnt about a royal peculiar and not I alone! I have delved deeper into the history of our monarchy and left with some puzzlement over the makeup of the church. An increased appreciation of architecture and construction grows with every visit as I try to learn and understand these engineering feats. I could and probably should have written a lot more but will hopefully leave you wanting to explore these places for yourself.