Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, Florence, Italy

Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore

The symbol of Florence! Often called the Florence Duomo. But to use its proper name the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore. A precursor to renaissance Florence. Brunelleschi’s brilliance. A sublime statement. An architectural achievement. Superb and spectacular. The master of masterpieces. The crowning glory.

Florence was determined to be the leading city in Tuscany; it compared itself to former glory days of Rome. Florence, like other Italian cities (notably in Tuscany) was competing to build the largest, grandest and most impressive cathedral. Florence began work on its cathedral in the 13th century after Pisa had started its cathedral in 1063 and Siena built its cathedral by around 1260. The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore took over 140 years to build. The result definitely from the outside is breathtaking, the interior is open for debate. Join me as I explore the incredible Duomo of Florence.  

History of Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore

On my meanderings I’ve discovered that during the medieval years much wealth poured into Florence. Trade in wool and an extensive banking system brought untold wealth to the city. As a result, the people of the city thought of themselves in a city similar to ancient Rome. They decided they needed the grandest church in Tuscany, to compete with the cathedrals of Pisa and Siena. At the time population of the city was around 100,000 people, and it was expected that they would all be able to fill the church when completed.

Construction on a new cathedral began on the site of the old cathedral of Santa Reparata in 1296, with the first stone laid on 8th September. The renowned architect Arnolfo di Cambio was entrusted with plans and building the church. A familiar name from my meanderings around Florence thus far. His other building works I have discovered were the Church at Santa Croce and Palazzo Vecchio. Remember the tower at the Palazzo Vecchio is named after him.

How much of his plan was achieved maybe be minimal. His planned size a small comparison compared to the colossal size it finished. As he died 6 years after he started. Several architects were to continue working on the church after his death. This included Giotto, Talenti, Giovanni Ghini and Brunelleschi.

In the year 1366 a model was created to illustrate the shape and scale of the design. This was not to be altered. This was the plan, and they were going to stick with it. For all the plans made there was a major flaw. They didn’t account for how the Dome would be engineered and constructed. They hoped as time passed this problem would solve itself, through advancements in engineering and building techniques.

In 1418 a competition was opened to find someone who could build the dome. 200 florins was the winner’s reward. The winner was a certain Phillipo Brunelleschi. I will explore his plan in more detail when I cover the Dome later in the post.

When the dome was completed the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore was consecrated by Pope Eugene IV on March 25, 1436.

The outward appearance that is admired today shares a similar tale as Santa Croce in that it wasn’t completed until the 19th century. The façade of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore is a neo-gothic masterpiece. It was designed by De Fabris. If you look closely, you will see that it is adorned by the greatest Tuscan artists. The external walls are covered in white, green and red marble.

Design of Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore

The cathedral of Florence is one of the largest churches in the world. The cathedral is a Latin cross design. The plan consists of a triple nave, where the main central nave is joined with adjacent smaller aisles either side. The aisles are separated from the nave by towering pillars. In this visit I’ve learned that the area between the arches is referred to as bay. The bays here are larger than normal, which creates a much more open feel to the nave. 

The designers didn’t want the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore to be similar to the cathedrals of the north, most notably in France and Germany. The Cathedrals in the north focused more on their vertical elements where Florence’s Santa Maris del Fiore placed an emphasis on horizontal elements.

Like all other churches and cathedrals, the nave stretches from the entrance (at the bottom of the cross) to centre of the cross. The High altar is located at the centre of the cross. To the north, south and east of the high altar is an arrangement of three apses. Each of the apses has 5 chapels. The design when looking from above was to suggest the form of a flower. With more time, I would explore possible links between the name of the cathedral (Our Lady of the Flower), with the city’s coat of arms (its emblem the Florentine lily) and the city’s name (“Florentia”, that is, “city of flowers”). 

The inside of the cathedral I found to be a very dull affair, which is perhaps why I’m lacking in photos of the interior. There is a distinct lack of windows in comparison to other cathedrals visited here in the UK and the rest of Europe. I must admit that the sheer size of the nave is incredible to see. Thankfully I had booked tickets to the visit the Dome which would provide the best view of the fresco painted on the ceiling.

Brunelleschi’s Dome

The Done was built between 1420 and 1436. In the competition to find a suitable designer, Phillips Brunelleschi beat his longtime rival, Lorenzo Gilberti.

Lorenzo had beaten Phillipo in a previous competition to build the bronze doors for the baptistry. Brunelleschi was named the chief architect (capomaestro) in 1420 and would hold that position until his death in 1446.

Brunelleschi was a sculptor and architect who had left Florence after his aforementioned defeat in competition to Gilberti. He decided to explore and survey Rome. Here he gathered ideas and drew inspiration from Rome’s ancient buildings. In particular the Roman Pantheon provided him with the knowledge and ideas to succeed with his dome.

Brunelleschi’s design was a double-shell dome. The two domes working together but with separate purposes. The outer shell covered in terracotta tiles, would protect the inner shell from the elements whilst the inner shell would be used to support the outer shell. The inner shell spans the diameter and is self-supporting. He would use a unique brick pattern on the inner dome referred to as herringbone pattern.

Brunelleschi used a series of compression rings around the inner dome’s circumference. These were to stop the dome from collapsing. The gap between the two domes would act as a stairwell to the top. At the top of the dome is Brunelleschi’s lantern. This was another competition that he won though the lantern was not built until after his death. The 463 steps to the top are worth it for the panoramic views gained over the city of Florence.

Brunelleschi had to think on his feet during the construction process. The challenges must have been relentless. A masterful piece of work and engineering genius. It’s beyond impressive.

When climbing the stairs to the top of the dome, rest maybe taken at internal balcony. Here you can admire the ‘Last judgement’, a fresco painted on the inside of the internal dome. Cosimo and Vasari combine yet again for another incredible piece of Art. It was started in 1572. Completed at first by Giorgio Vasari (died in 1574 the same year as Cosimo) and finished by Federico Zuccari in 1579.

At 3,600 square metres the completed fresco represents one of the largest paintings in the world. Vasari worked with Cosimo’s literary and theological adviser Vincenzo Borghini. With around 700 figures used in the painting trying to understand its meaning would take some time that is unavailable as you must be at the top of the dome in a certain time.

It really is something to admire and admire you should. I was so taken back that I ignored the stained-glass windows at this level. There are eight drum windows, by Donatello, Ghiberti, Andrea del Castagno and Paolo Uccello.

Campanile di Giotto

The Italian lesson continues as I learn than Campanile means bell tower. Giotto is the name of the famous 13th century painter, whose artwork I discovered in the church at Santa Croce. Giotto began work on the tower in 1334, and just like Arnolfo di Cambio he died before he could finish the tower in 1337. The tower was completed in 1359 after Andrea Pisano and Francesco Talenti had continued the construction.

Giotto’s bell tower stands 85m high on a square 15m base. Giotto planned for the tower to be 115m in height but ultimately it was to fall short. 414 steps will get you to the top of the tower which provides a different perspective of the cathedral and another view of the city. The tower is a masterpiece of Italian Gothic architecture. A theme I’m starting to pick up when visiting churches and cathedrals around Italy has been the separation of a tower to house the bells.

Conclusions

Towering above the buildings of Florence the imposing Cathedral of Florence can’t be missed. Such a dominating structure draws the attention of all visitors to the city. Brunelleschi’s dome really is something to behold. It defies logic. I can’t recall a city where a building dominates its skyline as much as this cathedral. It really is the central focus.

My visit has provided me with an enhanced appreciation of cathedrals. I’m still dumbfounded at how they managed to build them. I continue to pick up the odd Italian word here and there to boost my meagre knowledge of the local language along with increased fascination of the arts. A visit to Florence Cathedral allows you to see some of the great work completed by so many famous names.

The visit has given fresh zeal to visit some more cathedrals. In order to see what the competition was, visits to cathedrals at Pisa and Siena are necessary along with some further afield that are larger than Florence cathedral. These include the Basilica of St. Peter in Vatican City, St. Paul’s Cathedral in London, the Cathedral of Seville and the Cathedral of Milan.

Basilica of Santa Croce, Florence, Italy

Basilica of Santa Croce

In the heart of Florence and at the eastern end of the Piazza Santa Croce, stands the impressive Basilica of Santa Croce. A tall, elegant and grand church which on first impressions immediately appeals to my inquisitive mind. The church was built on former marsh lands that were outside the old city walls in what was often referred to as the poor part of the city. Santa Croce is the largest Franciscan church in the world.

In this visit I discover about the Saint Francis Assisi, the man who gave up his family’s fortune to pursue a life of God through poverty. He became the patron Saint of Italy and founder of the Franciscan church. The Franciscan order is characterized by total poverty. Its links to its past and origins might seem strange when exploring the church. Plain on first sight, an intimate walk around proves that this church is a treasure trove of wealth and art. Join me as I discover why this church is often referred to as the Temple of Italian Glories.

History of Santa Croce

Santa Croce’s history begins with the spreading of the religious message of Francis of Assisi. He was a spiritual leader who set out to follow the example of Jesus Christ by following the gospel accounts after giving up a life in the military. He devoted his life to serving God and helping the poorest in society. His following, referred to as Franciscans, arrived in the winter of 1209 to build a church and monastery in the poorest part of Florence.

As times changed, wealth and money started to pour into the city of Florence. Wealthy merchants donated their newfound money to the building of a new church. As Florence became a powerhouse of the Middle Ages the church was rebuilt before being enriched and modified. Fires and floods added complications and resulted in more modifications and improvements to the church and the complex.

By the 19th century Santa Croce had established itself as a ‘must visit’ tourist site. People from all over Europe would come to visit the church. But at the time of the Napoleonic suppressions the Franciscans had to give up the church and monastery which was taken over by the military with barracks set up in an area of the complex. By the time Napolean was defeated Santa Croce was given back to Franciscans in 1814.

Shortly after the wars came the unification of Italy, a subject I must confess to knowing little about. The ‘House of Savoy’ and the ‘papacy’ are all subjects to learn about as my exploration of this country continues. Before Rome became the capital of Italy, the honor fell to Florence. It was during this period that the church became the property of the central state.

In the year 1933 Santa Croce was elevated to the honorific rank of Basilica. The floods of 1966 almost destroyed the church, but the church survived and has been the subject of intense restoration ever since.

Santa Croce Façade

Standing in the middle of the Santa Croce square the impressive façade stands tall and proud in front of you. The façade that is seen today was financed in part by an English Protestant magnate, Sir Francis Joseph Sloane. Sir Francis had made his fortune from a local Tuscan copper mine. When I have some more time I will explore if there is a link between Sir Francis and a namesake square in London.

The façade is the work of architect Niccolo Matas who finished the façade between 1853 and 1865. It is clad in white marble and framed in green marble, a very traditional Florentine appearance from the Middle Ages and Renaissance. This is an appearance that is all too common in the rest of the city. In my eagerness to enter the church I really didn’t pay much attention to the details of the façade. At the top of the façade, surprisingly is a star of David. Rumors are this was built here because Niccolo was Jewish.

Monument to Dante

As I leave the square and make my way around to the entrance of the church, I cannot miss the tall and imposing monument placed near the church. On closer inspection I find out this is a monument to ‘Dante’.

I must confess to knowing nothing of the man and must add this to the list of research and self-education after my visit. A quick search teaches me that he was a famous Italian poet, philosopher and writer whose famous work was ‘The Divine Comedy’. The first section of this work includes what is known as Dante’s Inferno and is a medieval description of hell. The monument seen here today is from 1968, but the original statue dates to 1865, the year of grand celebrations of the famous Dante’s birth in 1265.

The creation of this monument was planned to coincide with the completion of the new façade. Its original location was in the middle of the square before it was moved to its present position. When it was unveiled in its new location the new king of Italy (Victor Emanuel II) was there for the unveiling. According to my guidebook, the base is adorned with two Marzocco, the heraldic lions of the old Florentine republic. 

Monument to Dante
Monument to Dante

The basilica of Santa Croce

The construction of the current church was started in 1294 to replace the old church founded by St Francis and his followers. Santa Croce translated means ‘Holy Cross’. The design of the church was by Arnolfo di Cambio.

In recent visits I started to comment on how churches are constructed in the shape of a cross. Santa Croce is no different, except that its floorplan is in the form of a Tau cross. I was blissfully unaware that there were different types of crosses. A Tau cross is a T shaped cross and is called a Tau because it is shaped like the Greek letter Tau which in its upper-case form has the same appearance as the Latin letter T.

Entry is made on the north side and into the nave and not through the western entrance in the ornate Façade. Towering arches have been built on octagonal pillars on either side of the nave. Looking upwards to the ceiling, a very bland set of timber trusses contrast beautifully with the white arches.

The nave itself simmers. All is silent as visitors walk slowly round, appreciating all that is before them. The feeling I had was this was a church that is yet to be discovered by most tourists. This leaves time and space to learn and appreciate one of Florence’s less visited sites. As I walk round to the western entrance to start my visit properly, the high altar at the far end of the nave seems spectacular and worthy of a detailed look. There is so much to see that not all can be seen in the one visit. I’ll be back.  

Temple of the Italian Glories

Interspersed around the chapels of the basilica Santa Croce, on both floors and walls in both the nave and aisles are several tombs, graves and elaborate monuments to notable Italians. As my exploration of Florence, Tuscany and Italy broadens I’m sure a better education will take place on some of the names I’m about to mention. This place is known as the temple of Italian glories (we in England might use the word worthies). It is a who’s who of Italian history. Santa Croce went from an initial graveyard, which served the Franciscan friars before wealth and power dictated more elaborate monumental tombs and graves to be placed within its walls. As a result, Santa Croce became the guardian of Florence’s glories.

It started in the 15th century with two tombs for Leonardo Bruni and Carlo Marsuppini, two literary figures who earned their fame as chancellors of the Florence Republic. The signoria (local government) stumped the costs of these graves which began the transition to Guardian of Florence Glories. Cosimo de Medici revived the tradition of using the church to honour the great and good when he commissioned the monument to world renowned sculptor and artist Michelangelo (famous for his painting in the Sistine chapel and his David sculpture). Others would take a leaf out of his book as monuments were added, most notably for astronomer Galileo, and political philosopher Machiavelli (from whom we get our English word Machiavellian).

From the 19th century onwards, the church transformed from Guardian of Florence’s glories to the Pantheon of the Italians. A monument to Vittorio Alfieri was completed in 1810 before a cenotaph of Dante Alighieri was erected in 1829 (he is still buried in Ravenna). Monuments and tombs to Gioachino Rossini (who was buried in Paris, before his body was removed and brought here) were added at the beginning of the 20th century. In 1871 the remains of Foscolo were also transferred to Santa Croce. Efforts were also made to try and bring back Dante’s remains but, sadly, agreement could not be reached.

There are over 250 graves and monuments to explore and about which to learn. I won’t bore you with the details of each one but challenge you to see it all for yourself if visiting Florence – you won’t be disappointed.

The Masterpieces

Santa Croce’s origins as a Franciscan Church seem almost forgotten when viewing the incredible artwork that adorns the place. This church is so rich in its fabulous works of art that it almost defies the Franciscan order of poverty. There are around 4,000 pieces of work, ranging from the 13th to 20th century which bless this church and complex. One can only imagine the arts of work here are priceless as most of what is seen is original.

Some of the highlights include the main altar, surrounded in frescoes of the ‘Legend of the True Cross’ by Agnolo Gaddi. The frescoes by Giotto. There is the Cimabue crucifix dated 1288. There is the Bardi altarpiece. 3 pieces of work by Donatello, the crucifix in painted wood, Saint Louis of Toulouse in gilded bronze and the Annunciation of the Virgin. Construction of Pazzi chapel by Brunelleschi. Michelangelo’s tomb, Salviati’s ‘Deposition’, Bronzino’s ‘Descent’. The list could go on and on.

The 16 chapels built within the church, combined with the greater church complex, draw inspiration for so many and even influence some. In the 19th century French author Stendhal visited Florence and Santa Croce, and he was overcome with emotion. He wrote “I was in a sort of ecstasy, from the idea of being in Florence, close to the great men whose tombs I had seen”. Stendhal syndrome was born, also known as Florence syndrome which occurs when individuals are exposed to such magnificent art.

In Conclusion

Santa Croce was a great place to start my education on the beautiful city of Florence. The basilica of Santa Croce certainly wasn’t on my list of places to be visited constructed prior to arriving. There are reputedly more famous and iconic attractions in the city. So, I’m grateful for the recommendation to visit by a dear friend.

What was learnt at the basilica has built on knowledge gleaned in recent meanderings. I had learnt how that a church’s floorplan represents a cross, but these meanderings further enhanced that knowledge base as I learned that there are different types of crosses. The basilica is a combination of the grandiose Gothic architecture, the tombs of great Italians, the perfection of Brunelleschi’s Pazzi Chapel and some of the finest examples of Florentine painting.

Its origins date back to one of the two patron saints of Italy, Saint Francis. This has given rise to an interest in visiting Assisi (Umbria region, south of Tuscany in central Italy) if the opportunity arises. I found out that some of the great people of Florentine and Italian history are buried here. Not only did the basilica provide the perfect place to start exploring but also has inspired me to visit and explore Ravenna (where Dante is buried).

So, I leave the Basilica of Santa Croce behind and meander off in search of the next jewel in Florence’s crown.