This is a site that probably deserves more attention yet I’m sure people are grateful for its peaceful seclusion. The site is a little further down the road than the ‘Sanctuary of Madonna at San Luca’ and approximately 9km due south of Bologna. The monument is a significant war memorial which elicits great amounts of emotion. The awe inspiring ‘Monument to the fallen of Sabbiuno’ is dedicated to the memory of soldiers who horrifically lost their lives in the line of duty towards the end of World War II.

This monument to the fallen not only serves as a poignant tribute to people who suffered in past events but a stark reminder of the need of peace and unity in current times. The stunning panorama is a memorial to the fallen of the atrocious events that took place here in December 1944.

This was the site of the massacre of approximately 100 Bolognese partisans and political prisoners who were shot by Nazi fascists. The accurate number and full truth will never be known, as the bodies were recovered after the Liberation and not all were identified. It is believed that these atrocious events took place between 14^th and 23^rd December 1944, an event known as the ‘Sabbiuno di Paderno massacre’.

Sabbiuno — Boulders leading to the firing squad

Farmhouse at Sabbiuno — Farmhouse at Subbiuno

This remembrance site is striking. It runs along the crest of the ravine from an isolated farmhouse to a curved wall on the ridge. The curved wall has been built as a symbolic representation of the firing squad. There are gaps in the wall where replica machine guns stick out. Between the farmhouse and ridge rest 53 staggered boulders.

A close inspection reveals the names of the individuals who were tragically shot and were able to be identified. There is one additional boulder with no name which is dedicated to the forty-seven unidentified fallen. This striking monument was created by the Gruppo Architetti Città Nuova, and formed by Letizia Gelli Mazzucato, Umberto Maccaferri, and Gian Paolo Mazzucato, between 1972 and 1973.

Walking along beside the boulders is an eerie experience. It conjures up mixed emotions and feelings as the monument lays bare the horrific atrocities of war. My meanderings aren’t always fun tales of the good times but are often learning journeys where exploration leads to education. The education that took place here at the ‘Monument of the fallen of Sabbiuno’ was powerful. I thank Lorenzo our local taxi guide for telling us about this place. The monument to the fallen of Sabbiuno is a very touching tribute.

San Luca, Bologna, Italy

Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca

Perched on top of the mountain Colle della Guardia and overlooking the city of Bologna is the iconic ‘Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca’, an important symbol of the city. There has been a church in some form at the site since the 12^th century with the current basilica built in the 18^th century. Read on as I learn why San Luca is more than just a tourist destination, and as I discover, more by luck than by judgement, about the ‘Madonna and child’ and the symbolism of the longest portico in the world.

History of San Luca

Tradition has it that in the 11^th century a pilgrim by the name of Theocles Kmnia arrived in Italy from Constantinople carrying a painting depicting the ‘Madonna and Child’. He was to take the painting to Monte della Guardia (a hill to the southwest of Bologna) but ended up in Rome. Thankfully a Bolognese senator was able to show him the right way. Theocles arrived at the gates of Bologna in 1160 and delivered the painting of ‘Madonna and Child’ to the then Bishop of Bologna, a Gerardo Grassi.

At the top of Monte della Guardia was a small church where Beatrice and Azzolina Guezi (two hermits leading a penitent life) took sanctuary. Bishop Grassi decided to deliver the painting to this church. Thus, the route that pilgrims still take to this day was born.

Over time a large influx of pilgrims visited the church which meant that it needed to expand to cope with the increased numbers. So, in 1194 the foundation stone, which came from Rome, was laid and blessed by Pope Celestine III. Since then, the church has had many transformations. Construction of the church as seen today was started in 1723 by Carlo Francesco Dutti and finished in 1757.

The Church

The basilica is prominent and spectacular being built on top of the hill. It is captivating, looks very Bolognese – plain and simple – basic in its external decor (orange in colour), and with a distinctive dome on top. As I walk in, I’m immediately drawn to the altar at the far end. Unknown to me, this is where ‘Madonna and Child’ is kept.

One soon realises the importance, grandeur and splendour of the altar area. Artwork, pillars, golden decorations adorn this area of the church. One cannot ignore the centrepiece, ‘The Madonna of San Luca’, which is kept in a silver looking case which sits in an ornate cove and is surrounded by golden borders. Also, inside the church it is possible to see works from Guido Reni, Donato Creti, Giuseppe Mazza and Guercino.

The Rains of 1433

In 1443 the heavy rains threatened to destroy the cities harvest. The city elders decided that that a procession from San Luca, carrying ‘The Madonna with Child’ to the centre of Bologna might help the situation. Miraculously, as the painting left the sanctuary so it began to stop raining. And so, since 1443 it has become tradition (feast of accession) to carry the painting down to the city where it resides in Bologna’s Cathedral for a 1 week before a procession takes it back. There were two occasions when this didn’t happen – firstly, in 1849 when the city was occupied by Austrians and, secondly, in 1944 during World War II.

The modern procession has broken a little from tradition as it now starts at Porta Saragozza and not San Luca and makes its way through the streets of the city to Bologna Cathedral.

The World’s Longest Portico

Built to protect pieces of artwork of the ‘Madonna and Child’ that had been created along the route, local merchants and wealthy families came together to provide the needed funds to build the portico. The world’s longest portico (covered walkway) was built between 1674 and 1793. The first arch starts at beginning of Via Saragozza, a street which leads away from the city at Porta Saragozza (gate of Saragozza).

The portico is made up of 666 arches and 15 chapels. The number of arches may be thought a very controversial number when you consider its religious significance (the number of evil and, some would say, the devil) but it is, in fact, by design. When looking from above the portico resembles a snake slithering up the hill to ‘meet’ the ‘Madonna’ church. The snake symbolises the devil and the church is seen as victorious and reigning supreme over the devil.

The length of the walk from bottom to top is 4km. For tourists and pilgrims alike, it is said that reaching the Sanctuary of the Madonna by foot can make a wish come true.

Conclusions

The Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca should not be missed when visiting Bologna. Simple in appearance yet significantly symbolic, it is a pilgrimage site for believers, but also a very popular tourist destination. A portico plod may be inspiring though extremely exhausting, especially in the summer months. Reach the top, however, and there is great reward. This trip educated me on the ‘Madonna and Child’ and the significance it plays in the city of Bologna, and how it effects its traditions and its people. San Luca is a beautiful place of myth and mystery.

Tag: Bologna tourism

Monument to the fallen of Sabbiuno, Bologna, Italy