Exeter Cathedral is one of the great cathedrals of England. The anglican cathedral is properly known as the Cathedral Church of Saint Peter. For nearly 1000 years it has stood proud and dominated the cathedral green in the heart of the city. The city of Exeter is the administrative centre and capital of the English county of Devon in the southwest of England. Exeter cathedral is the mother church of the Diocese of Exeter and throne of the Bishop of Exeter.

Exeter Cathedral is a place of worship, full of history, unique in design and home to some fascinating features. In this guide I will explore these features which include the medieval west front image screen, an intriguing minstrel’s gallery, an astronomical clock, a towering bishop’s throne, a couple of impressive Norman towers, stunning vaulted ceiling and the impressive great eastern window.

Visiting Exeter Cathedral

Exeter Cathedral Location

Opening times of Exeter Cathedral

Exeter Cathedral is generally open 9-5 Monday through to Saturday. On Sunday reduced hours are 11.30-3. Depending on how you wish to visit will determine the time you spend in the cathedral.

Admission prices of Exeter Cathedal

If you are visiting to pray and worship, then entry to the cathedral is free. If you’re looking to explore the cathedral then an admission fee is charged (currently £10 – if you gift aid, you can return visit as many times as you want or are able in a 12-month period). The wealth that cathedrals enjoyed in their hey days is long gone, so the admission fee helps towards maintenance of such an incredible building.

Tours of Exeter Cathedral

These are invaluable sources of knowledge and information and have helped me bring these guides and information to you. Exeter offers a 60-minute tour as part of the admission ticket. They do offer other tours, most notably the Onwards and Upwards tour. It cost £22.50 and was worth every penny. Access is provided to the top of North Tower (weather permitting) for wonderful views over the city of Exeter. On the tour you will walk above the vaulted ceiling and underneath the disjointed roof. There are other tours available. Please let me know if you’ve been on any.

Exeter Cathedral History

Founding of Exeter Cathedral

The first bishop of Exeter was Leofric in 1050 (buried in the Lady Chapel). Leofric moved from his then current base in Crediton after gaining permission from the Pope and King Edward ‘the Confessor’ (former King of England and buried in Westminster Abbey). Prior to this change Devon’s bishop was based in Crediton which is to the northwest of the city in mid Devon.

There have been several buildings on the cathedral site. The first cathedral was dedicated to St Peter. It is marked by a standing metal cross near the steps in front of the Western entrance of the current cathedral. Bishop Leofric established a cathedral community that was secular, ‘a brotherhood of canons’ working for the bishop. Exeter Cathedral was never monastic, which is an important fact to remember when considering what took place during the reformation.

Norman Cathedral

In 1114 works were begun to build a new cathedral by Exeter’s third bishop, Walter Warewast. This was Exeter’s 2^nd cathedral and built in the Romanesque style. Norman cathedrals were built like castles – strong thick walls with very few windows. The only remaining evidence of this part of the building is the North & South towers. Completion was completed towards the end of the 12^th century. The partly completed Norman castle was consecrated in 1133. The Norman (Romanesque) cathedral was completed in 1180.

3rd Cathedral

Work began on a new gothic cathedral in 1270. It would take another 100 years or so to complete the building that we admire today. Inspiration for the new cathedral was taken from the cathedral at Salisbury. Work began at the eastern end with the Lady Chapel and flanking chapels.

In 1286 Edward I visited the city to preside over the trial of Lechlade’s murder that had taken place in 1283. The murder, or at least the escape of the perpetrators, was made easy by the fact that the south gate in the city’s fortifications had been left open. Before Edward left he granted permission for Bishop Quinil to construct a 12’ high security wall around the cathedral precinct. This wall included 7 gates. This was like other cathedrals in the land, for example, at Norwich and Winchester. Lincoln begun building a similar wall in 1285 with Edward I’s permission. Other examples can be seen in Wells, Worcester, Canterbury & Chester.

Bishop Walter Stapledon (1308-26 – Walter founded Exeter College in Oxford with his brother) had a major piece of cathedral furniture constructed and this remains to this day. This is the bishop’s throne canopy, sometimes referred to as the cathedra. This medieval piece of woodwork stands 16m tall and is made from local Devon oak.

Building the Nave

By 1328 the cathedral works had progressed to the eastern end of the nave. Work was done to include the two Norman towers as the transepts. This unique design is different from other England cathedrals that favour the central tower. This design allowed the longest vaulted stone ceiling in the world to be created.

The nave was built on top of the old Romanesque church footprint with the work being completed in 1342. Evidence can be seen when looking around the walls of the nave of the old existing church.

Work began when the nave was completed to build the screen that is visible on the outside at the western end of the cathedral. This was done in several stages and by different bishops. The completion of the screen shows how much of an afterthought it was as it was built over the bottom end of the Western window!!

Victorian Restoration of Exeter Cathedral

A name that was mentioned continuously throughout the tour was that of Sir George Gilbert Scott. During the Victorian years he led a program of renovations which uncovered and restored original elements of the building.

Exeter Cathedral Tombs

Sadly, there are no royals buried at Exeter Cathedral. Most of the tombs are of bishops. Bishops back in the day were more than bishops – they were landowners, politicians etc. There is one tomb of particular interest that will pave, I hope, the way to further explorations.

In the southern transepts there is a monument to Hugh Courtenay, 2^nd Earl of Devon, and his wife Countess Margaret. Sir Hugh was owner of Tiverton and Okehampton Castles and played an important role in the Hundred Years wars. His son would go on to become the Archbishop of Canterbury. The Courtenay family still exists today and resides in Powderham Castle just outside of Exeter.

Dotted around the quire and in chapels are several tombs and these include Bishop Leofric, Bishop Henry Marshal (related to the famous William Marshal discovered in recent meanderings to Wales), Bishop Walter Stapledon, Bishop Edmund Stafford, Bishop Walter Bronescombe and Bishop Hugh Oldham.

Monument and effigy of Bishop William Cotton

Monument of Hugh Courtenay (2nd Earl of Devon) & Countess Margaret

Fascinating features

Norman Towers

The two Romanesque towers are the oldest parts of the building, dating back to the early 12^th century. Admire them equally from the outside and the inside. On the outside you will notice the Romanesque style, its lack of windows, almost castle like. From the inside – stand in the towers and look up and you will see a timber vaulted ceiling. The southern tower houses the bells.

West Front Image Screen

The screen was completed in two phases between 1342 and 1480. In the screen you will find figures of angels (the bottom row), kings, prophets and saints (the upper rows). On close inspection you will notice that some are missing or damaged. The screen was an afterthought, as clearly shown when you look at the top of the screen it obstructs the bottom of the western window. In its heyday this stonework would have been highly coloured and is described as a vision of heaven.

Vaulting

The longest continuous medieval stone vault in the world. Sprinkle in over 400 incredibly detailed ‘bosses’ and it leaves you standing in amazement at the vibrant display. Concrete versions of palm trees were laid to support the ceiling. These are symmetrically aligned all the way through the nave. It is a true display and testament of the incredible craftsmanship of builders back in the day. Truly astonishing. The style of vaulting is known as ‘tierceron’.

Minstrels’ Gallery

When walking along the centre aisle of the nave, look above the gothic arches on the northern side. You will notice something unique. It is called the Minstrels’ gallery. Built in 1350, its purpose is unknown, but the gallery is adorned with 14 carved angels. If you look closely 12 of them are playing medieval instruments.

Astronomical Clock

On the wall in the Northern tower, you will find the Astronomical clock dating back to 1484. The centre of the clock is the earth represented by a golden ball. The black ball in the next ring is do with the moon with the outer ring pointing to the hour of the day. Beneath the clock is a door with a fascinating entrance. This was for the cathedral cat (the original cat flap?) who would kill the rodents who feasted on the mechanism for the clock.

Bishop’s Throne

In the choir (quire) area of the cathedral you will find the bishop’s throne. It is like nothing I’ve seen before. It dates to early 14^th century. The Devon oak used in its construction is held together with wooden pegs. It is huge (Why? one asks), at over 50 feet tall. Thankfully the throne was taken out of the cathedral during World War Two (WW II) to save it from any damage.

Great East Window

The glass in this incredible window dates from around the 14^th century. Thankfully, like the bishop’s throne, it was taken out and stored safely during WWII. This foresight (Exeter was badly bombed during the war) means we can appreciate the incredible display. It is best seen with the sun behind to show off the colour of the glass. The top three figures in between the tracery at the top of the window are Abraham, Moses and Isaish.

Exeter Cathedral Summary

It is said that Exeter Cathedral is one of the ‘great cathedrals of England’. My mission now is to visit all the cathedrals in England and see if this statement is true. It certainly is an impressive place to visit. The longest vaulted ceiling is something to behold.

People have preferences when visiting cathedrals. Some prefer exploring on their own especially if pushed for time. Others favour knowledge being shared with them. This was the first time I had completed a tour of a cathedral. It was highly informative and very insightful. What also made it was the tour guide. He mentioned that a visit to the church at Ottery St Mary, might be beneficial as the church there resembles this masterpiece. Challenge accepted.

My visit has inspired me to explore a couple of places local to Exeter. Crediton to see if there is any evidence of the earlier Bishopric before it moved to Exeter. The second place picked up on this visit is that of Powderham Castle where the Courtenay family lives.

After my visit to Lovely Lincoln my meanderings take me to another of these small and charming English cities, excellent Exeter. This city oozes much charm and packs a lot of character into its relatively small city centre which is enclosed by a wall. Comparisons could easily be made with other cities that have recently been visited in these shores – their similarities are startling. It’s surprising, that in my mission to visit every city in England, I haven’t been here sooner. About an hour’s drive from my current home, it is the birthplace of my mother and as a result was a regular destination for my school holidays.

Surrounded by beautiful Devonshire countryside, the city’s location has been founded and forged over the centuries close to the river Exe. Unlike other cities the river doesn’t run through its heart, but the river has still played a key part in the city’s rise and fall. Perhaps the city centre is on raised land that overlooks this river and would therefore provide a strategic position. A walk down to the quayside would confirm its elevation above the river. The river and quayside like most other places in England would provide much of the wealth and regeneration of the city over the centuries before the railways came.

Exeter’s wealth was built around tin in the 11^th century and wool in the 18^th century. Exports at this time relied heavily on waterways and ports. Exeter is a good way from the English Channel so use of the estuary (at Topsham) and eventually manmade canals gave it two thriving ports. The first port used in Exeter wasn’t the quayside that I had discovered in the city centre but at Topsham on the outskirts. If more time was available perhaps a walk from the city to Topsham along the river might be advised, to explore and learn about this key part of the city’s history. When the Romans arrived at Exeter, they used Topsham as the port, although the river was navigable into the city centre. Over time, arguments ensued, greedy people who owned the port did strange things (weirs, mills and the like), ownership traded hands, which eventually led to a canal being built in the 15^th century. This was expanded and developed in the 16^th century as trade with Europe had grown. Due to the canal bypassing Topsham its port was ignored, and boats now embarked at the quayside near the city centre. This resulted in the first brick building in Exeter, the customs house. What was once a place for weighing and paperwork of imports and exports, it is now home to a museum/activity centre documenting this part of the city’s unique history. Sadly, time or access didn’t allow me to visit it. The rest of the quayside represents nothing of a port these days, canoes and kayaks the only noticeable boats in the harbour but it has undergone regeneration as quirky shops, eateries and drinking establishments adorn the industrious quayside to amuse this modern generation.

The quayside was a fascinating discovery to make about the city. I’d imagine I had been as a kid but it’s an area that I have rather disappointingly overlooked in recent times. As you leave the quayside you have to walk upwards towards the city. This confirms the raised hill that would have overlooked the river. It is here that you get your first glimpses of the city walls. The charm of the city is encapsulated like other favourite cities by these protective city walls. Exeter’s walls certainly aren’t as glamourous or accessible as others seen. They certainly seem a thing of nostalgia and neglect. The best views of the walls can be found situated in between Northernhay and Rougemont gardens. I rather stumbled across this tranquil set of gardens as I tried to get off the bustling high street. It was here that I discovered Exeter’s castle. Not much to report as I firstly found signs and information relating to history of the Castle and the former gatehouse. Access beyond this wasn’t easily found and not much sign of a keep. The parks are a combination of the former city walls, flowers and several statues. I would imagine on a nice summer’s day a perfect spot for relaxation and views of the city. Sadly, on my rainy autumnal day the views were washed away and I had the place pretty much to myself, each and every cloud.

Exeter was thriving in the 11^th century, tin trade brought wealth and prosperity. In turn there was a church established. This led to Exeter boasting as many as 30 churches in the city centre. Clearly not all remain as England’s turbulent history would impact on their legacy. I have discovered that as a result of this one of the streets in the city housed religious people and was referred to as ‘street of priests’. At the heart of the city lies its impressive cathedral. England is perhaps blessed with so much history. These cathedrals are a great demonstration of England’s turbulent and interesting past. The cathedral is surrounded by a close, entrances and walls. There is much to learn and discover about the cathedral and this particular area. It involves plots, executions and a royal visit to sort the mess out. As a result of that 12^th century drama the building of a wall was commissioned by the King around the cathedral which had some 7 gates to provide access not only to the cathedral but the building yard that had caused the drama. A step inside the cathedral will lead to the discovery of a disappointing £7.50 entrance fee. The damp and wet weather outside meant that exploring this cathedral was a must, so payment was made to avoid traipsing around in the wet. Once the customary photos had been captured and the whole place had been explored it was time to get back outside. There is a green that surrounds one side of the cathedral which on sunnier days surely would be much more appealing. Along one side of the green is a row of houses that lead from one of the mentioned gates and merge into a warren of other buildings now housed in the city centre. A fire ravaged a hotel here recently (the oldest hotel in England?); building work has begun as it tries to return to former glories.

Exploring this intertwined maze of buildings is an absolute pleasure. Modern buildings hide the old ones. It is difficult to view these now as Exeter’s appeal for shoppers has enticed everyone in and people walk past carrying loads of bags. The new modern shopping complex is built a stone’s throw away from the cathedral yet has still managed to keep the ruins as part of its meandering landscape. Exploring here leads to many points of interest – alleyways, ruins, etc. – and my inquisitive nature leads me to explore some old churches and pubs. St. Martins church was a particular favourite and rumours are one of the oldest in the city. Its close proximity to the cathedral I found rather puzzling. The city has undergone some serious renovation in my short life time that I can visualise and remember. It is regarded as a excellent place to shop, wine and dine. How many of those enjoying those leisurely activities are blissfully unaware of the intriguing history and beauty in the city.

So excellent Exeter, a regular childhood destination, and place of former work has been added to my ever growing list of favourite English cities. I look forward to returning and exploring it again and again.

Exeter, England, United Kingdom

Tag: Visit Exeter

Exeter Cathedral, Architecture, History, South West England