More to Pisa than the iconic ‘Leaning Tower’

Pisa – city in Italy – Tuscany

Piazza del Duomo – square of miracles

To many a visitor, Pisa is the place to pose. I start my visit to Pisa at the iconic tower which is Italy’s famous landmark. It certainly draws a crowd. The cobbled walkway between the tower and the rest of the city is a sorry state of exuberance. Crowded with wannabee influencers, they fight for a space, which hopefully excludes others from their shot.

Flaunting their search of potential Instagram fame or becoming the next viral sensation is the name of the game. As poses are engineered and the weary photographer is often sent back to take another shot from a different angle, it is hard not to fall into the trap of copying the latest photo trend. But sneak away from the obsessive self-gratification and you find there is more to Pisa than a photo op.

I would hate to guess at how many people just visit to “get that picture”. Can you say you’ve really visited if you haven’t climbed the tower? Spontaneity is a distant memory these days; turning up on a whim is a fool’s dream. The ease that pre booking gives you is stark contrast to the mayhem of people queuing and trying to get tickets. Some leave with the satisfaction of climbing the tower and visiting the cathedral. Others you imagine are equally satisfied with their picture!

Tower of Pisa aka ‘Leaning Tower of Pisa’

The tower is a real tick in the tourist checklist. Climbing the 294 steps up the tower is surely a must! Even without it’s lean the tower is rather impressive. The tower was built to house the cathedral’s bells and is unusual as it is set completely apart and to the rear of the cathedral.

There are some similarities between the ‘Tower of Pisa’ and Giotto’s campanile in Florence. Building began on the ‘Tower of Pisa’ in 1174 by Bonanno Pisano. Work came to a halt when the tower started sinking into the ground before it was finally finished in the 14^th century. The belltower is home to 7 bells. Walking around the lopsided top floor is a weird sensation. The view, though, is richly rewarding and shows impressive views of both city and cathedral.

The blogs of my meanderings have often mentioned a cross like shape when visiting cathedrals. When looking from above you immediately see the Latin-cruciform plan. The sheer size of the cathedral is impressive and immediately shows what the Florentines were competing against. Of the bell towers visited thus far around Italy (Bologna & Florence), is this the better one?

Pisa Cathedral – Metropolitan Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary

Construction of the cathedral began as early as 1064. Stepping inside shows more clearly the age of the building as examples of plain and simple Romanesque architecture are evident. Further investigation shows influence from around the world. Those influences come from the Moors, Byzantine, Islamic and Armenian cultures – a true testament of the diverse wealth created by the merchants during Pisa’s maritime republic.

Construction finished in 1092, and consecration took place in 1118. Enlargements took place over time until a devasting fire broke out in 1595. This took the roof off, damaged the entrance doors and many pieces of art. The doors seen today are not those of Bonanno but made by the artists of the school of Giambologna.

The pulpit in Pisa cathedral is incredible. Carved by Giovanni Pisano in 1302 and completed it in 1311. The pulpit is certainly elaborate with the carvings showing the main episodes of the life of Christ.

Pisa Baptistery of St. John and Camposanto Monumentale

Once you have completed visits to the cathedral and its famous tower take the time to explore the two other points of interest that may be seen on purchase of a full ticket – the largest baptistery in Italy and the Camposanto.

The baptistery is perhaps best viewed from the outside where you will notice that the roof is unusual. The roof is split into two halves. One half of the roof faces the sea and is finished in rich red tiles that glow at sunset. The other half is covered in lead and catches the rays of the rising sun. It’s hard to believe but the baptistry is taller than the leaning tower.

Inside the baptistry is rather plain and simple. 12 columns which represent the 12 apostles tower up to the upper gallery which is the best place to listen to acoustics of melodies that are performed daily. Also, on the upper floor, there is one window which offers a fantastic view (and perfect photo spot) of the cathedral front and tower behind.

Less visited of all the 4 sites is the Camposanto Monumentale (monumental churchyard). Inside you will find evidence of medieval paintings and sculptures. It was also decided that the Roman coffins should be housed rather than randomly scattered around the Duomo. Built in 1276 at the behest of Archbishop Federigo Visconti the architecture is outstanding. Legend has it that the churchyard was built on a mound of soil brought back from the Holy Land in 12^th century.

Mura di Pisa – Pisa’s City Walls

After completing the ‘square of miracles’ take time to explore the rest of the city. From the square an alternative and more serene route is to walk the old city walls. Entrance is located just behind the Camposanto where a small entrance fee is required. The towering 11m high medieval walls provide a different and interesting perspective of the city. Along the 3km route there aren’t many points of interest once you leave the square of miracles.

The end of the city walk brings us out on the edge of the River Arno, the famous river that flows from its source in the Tuscan Apennines through Florence and now Pisa. On this fine day its simmering reflections greet us with our weary limbs as we head to the city centre in search of refreshments. Our exhaustion and lack of time mean visits are not made to some of the interesting and historical places along the river. The Medici family villa was easily recognisable on the other side of the river as we walked past. You shouldn’t ignore Chiesa di Santa Maria della Spina – sadly it wasn’t open when we passed.

Medici in Pisa

Pisa is often referred to as the other Medici capital. In the winter they would hold their court in the city. With hindsight I should have acquainted myself with details of the influence the Medici family over the city before the visit and should have dedicated more time to explore this part of their history.

We stop close to the Logge dei Banchi, formerly Logge dei Mercanti or del Buontalenti, which was built by Grand Duke Ferdinando I de’ Medici in 1606. The Medici coat of arms is emblazoned on the outside of the building. We then cross the river and head back into the city and back towards the square of miracles.

Directly opposite us on the other side of the river is Piazza Garibaldi which, as you guess, is named after the statue of the general who played a key role in the unification of Italy. This is another major part of Italian history I need to learn about. I can recall seeing his statue in Bologna and now Pisa – evidently, he was a man of clear importance in Italian history.

We meander our way along the streets in a northernly direction. Having no plan and getting lost is part of the fun. Did you know that Pisa was the birthplace of Galileo Galilei? His grave was discovered in Santa Croce in Florence. Somehow, we stumble upon a statue to Ferdinando I de’ Medici who invested much into the university of Pisa. Further evidence of his involvement with the university was seen when a noticeable doorway was discovered of Ferdinando. The Medici coat of arms is noticeable across the city.

Piazza dei Cavalieri

There is evidence of the renaissance in the beautiful Piazza dei Cavalieri. The second most famous piazza in the city is also known as ‘knights square’. A commanding presence in the middle of the square is a statue of Cosimo de’ Medici. The square is surrounded by beautiful buildings which were designed by Cosimo’s architect Vasari. As time has beaten me, I leave through the Piazza through the archway of Palazzo dell’Orologio head back to the square of miracles.

Pisa Summary

I leave Pisa exhausted from a long day walking and exploring. Treading the beaten path can be frustrating and exasperating. Trying to find the untrodden path always brings much joy and reward. The fine weather of course helps.

For me, there is a lot more to Pisa than meets the eye. I’m grateful that I didn’t just come to Pisa to see the tower and get a picture. I can leave knowing that I climbed to the top, visited the cathedral, baptistery and Camposanto Monumentale. Most of all I’m proud to have explored further the beautiful city of Pisa and what it had to offer. I’m fast learning that my fascination with the Medici family shouldn’t be isolated to Florence, and why should it? After all they were the Grand dukes of Tuscany and Tuscany is larger than Florence. I shouldn’t be surprised to find evidence of the Medici influence in each place that I visit in Tuscany.

Pisa supposedly has a rich maritime history, which is hard to believe as not one boat or harbour was seen on my visit. Further exploration is clearly required. It is hoped that such explorations will provide the valuable information to be able to write about the city in full detail and cover its history.

Let’s see what other delights Tuscany has to offer and how far the Medici influence spread.

August 17, 2025September 13, 2025

Florence, Capital city of Tuscany, City in Italy

Florence is an iconic city known around the world as many people flock to visit her each year. It is the capital of Tuscany, which is one of 20 regions that form the country of Italy.

It is a city where its history is etched in its art and woven into its architecture. The city became the leading light in a new Europe after the darkness of the Black Death had pervaded it. This led to the birth of Humanism, which ultimately affected the birth of the Renaissance in the 14^th -16^th centuries. Much of this is down to the Medici family that saw an opportunity to build a dynasty. Each generation of the family were patrons of the arts and endowed much wealth into improvements to the city’s architecture.

The great beauty of Florence has left many a person in awe. Sore necks or even Florence Syndrome can be caused by the constant viewing!! Read on as I try to piece together Florence’s fascinating history, the characters that shaped the city and explain where the evidence for all this can be seen. This final blog on Florence (there are references to previous posts) is by way of summary of its history.

Florence Early beginnings

Originally founded by the Etruscans in the 6^th & 7^th centuries BC, it was supressed by Rome in 395 BC. Florence’s location was important as it was the only practical crossing of the River Arno as discovered in the post on Ponte Vecchio. The Romans saw the importance of the strategic location and as roads were built out of Rome, they knew that this location would provide access to Bologna and Faeza.

A military outpost was set up. This led to building of Roman structures like a theatre, spas, forum, etc. Sadly, there is little evidence of the Roman presence in the city although a visit to Vecchio Palace will allow you to see some Roman ruins (not accessible on my visit). The Romans named the city ‘Fiorentina’ meaning “flowering” (also the name of the city’s football team).

Florence in the Middle Ages

During the Middle Ages the city began to rise in prominence. It’s gold ‘Florin’ became the leading currency in the western world as Florentine banks established branches throughout Europe. This led to a war between Florence and Siena for control of Tuscany and the ultimate client the Holy See.

During 12^th and 13^th centuries the city struggled internally as factions who supported the Pope (Guelphs) clashed with those who supported the Holy Roman Emperor ((Ghibellines) – not to be confused with Rome – the emperor controlled most of central Europe before its defeat to Napolean and dissolution in 1806). The established banks in this period suffered an economic crisis in the 14^th century as loans made to European sovereigns were defaulted because of the 100 years wars leading to their collapse.

It was during these struggles that Dante Alighieri was exiled and wrote ‘The Divine Comedy’. Born in Florence, Dante still looms large over the city. His body isn’t buried in the city. A read of his books and a visit to his childhood home (sadly hasn’t been completed) would provide ample information on the man himself. Sadly, all I learnt about him was from the large statue in front of Santa Croce, his cenotaph inside, and his Death Mask house in the Palazzo Vecchio.

Arnolfo also started works on 3 iconic buildings within the city, Basilica of Santa Croce, Palazzo Vecchio and Cathedral of Santa Marie del Fiore. At the same time city walls were constructed to protect the people.

Cosimo de’ Medici (Father of His Country)

In the 15^th century the Medici family saw their opportunity and began forging their dynasty. As the Medici family was not of the aristocracy, it had to force their way onto to the scene. Their opportunity came after the banking collapse in the 14^th century as Cosimo secured the papal account to add to his expanding network of banks.

As their wealth grew, Cosimo built important alliances and patronages. He used these to control and rule Florence. His main passion was building. Evidence of this can be gathered all around the city of Florence. Brunelleschi’s dome, the basilica of San Lorenzo, the convent of San Marco, Palazzo Medici Riccardi, the Medici chapel in the Basilica of Santa Croce and a chapel at San Miniato were all beneficiaries of Cosimo’s generosity.

Cosimo surrounded himself with the geniuses of the time. Many of the artists and sculptors were assured of commissions but were treated like friends. Cosimo organised an extensive and methodical search for ancient manuscripts. These were brought and stored in his library. Cosimo opened his library and held meetings with great people of powerful minds as they discussed these manuscripts and ideas. This led to the birth of Humanism.

Lorenzo de’ Medici (the magnificent)

Lorenzo de’ Medici was grandson of Cosimo and son of Piero de’ Medici. He followed in his grandfathers’ footsteps. He was also a patron of the arts and letters, a talented poet, a skilled diplomat, and a great ruler. His diplomatic skills brought peace and stability across the Italian city states.

He married into Roman nobility when he married Clarice Orsini. As the banks’ funds were draining up due to poor decisions and lavish spending, he planned for a future by getting his offspring a foothold in the church. Most notable was his son, Giovanni, who would later become Pope Leo X. He survived the Pazzi conspiracy of 1478 when the Pazzi family tried to rule, but his brother Giuliano was murdered in the plot. Giuliano had an illegitimate son, who would later become Pope Clement VII.

Lorenzo’s love of art was confirmed in his court of artists. It was filled with the great names of the 15^th century renaissance. These included Piero, Michelangelo, Pollaiuolo, Verrocchio, da Vinchi, Botticelli, Ghirlandaio and Buonarroti. Evidence of their works are seen all over the city, most notably in the Uffizi Galleries, Galleria dell’ Accademia of Florence and The Bargello Museum.

Lorenzo the Magnificent among humanists and man of letters

Room of Lorenzo de' Medici called the magnificent

Lorenzo the Magnificent receives the tribute of the ambassadors

A gap in Medici Rule of Florence

After Lorenzo’s death in 1492, his son (Piero) would take control of the city. He is often referred to ‘the Unfortunate’ which is unfortunate in itself!! He was ultimately banished from the city after a failure in leadership. This led to a gap in the Medici rule as Niccolo Machiavelli (bust is seen in Palazzo Vecchio and grave in Santa Croce) was appointed senior official in the Republic. Artists would come in search of fame and fortune.

A man called Savonarola, an ascetic Dominican friar, led an uprising amongst the people and effectually created a republic. Savonarola held extreme views and spoke out against the corruption of the clergy and excesses of the Renaissance. This was mainly accomplished from his base in the convent in San Marco (a place yet to be visited in the city).

He encouraged bonfires to be lit to destroy luxuries. The biggest of these took place on 7^th February 1497 known as the bonfire of Vanities. Shortly after this the then current Pope, Alexander V, had him excommunicated. He was tried on charges of sedition and heresy. He was executed in Piazza della Signoria in 1498. He was only 46.

After Savonarola’s execution, Piero Soderini was declared Gonfaloniere of justice for life. I discovered his name in the room of 500 where he had instructed the two famous artists to paint scenes of Florentine history. He fled Florence after the Medici conquest of 1512.

During this time Lorenze’s son Giovanni was a cardinal to Pope Julius II. He used his close connections with the Pope to influence the addition of members of his family into positions of power. This was laid the groundwork for the future generations of the family. In 1513 Giovanni was elected Pope Leo X.

As head of Christendom, Leo X paid little attention to the church!! Strange, but true. Like his father he was more interested in the arts and letters. He drained the Vatican of its funds to support his extravagant patronage of the arts. He was so distracted by his patronage that he failed to pay sufficient attention to an unimportant monk by the name of Martin Luther but that’s another story. There are rooms dedicated to Leo X in Palazzo Vecchio.

Cosimo I de’ Medici (1st Grand duke of Tuscany)

Eventually the first grand duke of Tuscany, Cosimo, firmly restored the power of Medici rule in Florence. There is bold statue of him is the Piazza della Signoria. He became Duke of Florence at the age of 17 after his cousin Alessandro de’ Medici was assassinated. Cosimo was a strong and ambitious leader.

Cosimo reached out to Charles V (Holy Roman Emperor), who in exchange for Cosimo’s help against the French during the Italian wars, gave him the position of head of the Florentine state in 1537. He was elevated to the rank of Grand Duke of Tuscany in 1569 by Pope Pius V. Thus began the Medici hereditary rule that lasted until 1737.

Evidence of his rule is displayed all over the city as shown in previous posts. The decorations in the Palazzo Vecchio, the building of the Uffizi Gallery, Vasari Corridor and the purchase of the Palazzo Pitti.

Cosimo was a military man as well. Further exploration of Tuscany may provide evidence of his battles and what was built in Tuscany to secure the region. In Palazzo Vecchio in the hall of 500 the painting ‘Battle of Marciano’ is one of the 6 battle scenes that adorn the walls. This shows his successful battle over the city of Siena in 1555.

Cosimo married a Spainard, Eleanor of Toledo. Previous posts provide information about their time in the Palazzo Vecchio before they purchased the Palazzo Pitti.

Cosimo’s architect was a certain Giorgio Vasari. Cosimo commissioned Vasari for many projects and pieces of art. Evidence is all around Florence of their work. Frescoes inside the Brunelleschi Dome, the ceiling in the room of 500, remodelling and expansion of Palazzo Pitti are few that I have seen on my meanderings around the city.

Statue of Cosimo de' Medici in Piazza della Signoria

Portrait of Eleonora di Toledo with her son Giovanni

Further Medici rule in Florence

Medici rule continued until 1737 when Gian-Gastone passed away childless. He was the 7^th and final grand duke of the Medici family. Staring in the 16^th century the dates are – Francesco I (1574-1587), Ferdinando I (1587-1609), Cosimo II (1609-1621), Ferdinando II (1621-1670), Cosimo III (1670-1723) & Gian Gastone (1723-1737).

Each generation of the family continued the family’s legacy. Lovers of arts and science they commissioned major pieces of artwork. These were done to show the association between the family, religion and political control. A more detailed visit to the Palatine Gallery in Palazzo Pitti and Uffizi Gallery would show the artworks commissioned and collected.

A visit to the Medici Palace and other museums around the city would show more of the vast collection of art gathered.

During these years patronage was given to astronomer Galileo Galilei whose grave was seen in the Basilica of Santa Croce.

By the time the Medici rule came to an end the duchy was bankrupt.

Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici, (1667-1743) who was the last in the family dynasty donated the Medici collections to the city of Florence. That was some gift.

Florence after Medici rule

After the rule of the Medici family, Florence was governed by the Habsburg-Lorraine dynasty. It was briefly interrupted by Napolean but their time came to an end in 1859. Florence then annexed itself to the new Kingdom of Italy. It was around this time that the facades of Santa Croce and Cathedral of Santa Marie del Fiore were completed. As the new Kingdom of Italy was being formed Florence served as its capital between 1865-1870. Sadly, during these years much of the city was altered. City walls were pulled down as urban expansion took place (walls remain around the edges of Boboli gardens).

German occupation during the later stages of World War II resulted in Ponte Vecchio being saved, mercifully, as all the other bridges were blown up to halt the allied advance.

I have discovered in previous posts how the river caused death and destruction in 1966. A total of over 100 people were killed along with huge amounts of damage to the city’s art. “Angels of Mud” (Angeli del fango) was the name given to the people who came from all over the world to try and save as much of the art as possible.

Florence Conclusions

Florence now is now a popular and a ‘must see’ tourist hotspot. A constant hub of activity as people arrive at the Tuscan capital. Maybe Anna’ de’ Medici didn’t foresee the vast appeal the city and her family’s art collection would have but we’re grateful to her act of kindness in leaving it to the city.

A visit to Florence can be incredible and frustrating at the same time. Is there such a thing as too many tourists? A visit to Michelangelo square at sunset or walking across Ponte Vecchio or general walking the streets will provide the reason for frustration. One wonders if such have discovered anything of the tremendous history of Florence, taken an open mind to artistic endeavours and enjoyed an open-air classroom.

I came to Florence for differing reasons; my knowledge on the city was sadly limited to a TV show. I soon began to realise than I needed to delve into the detail and return to explore this majestic city. Many books have been purchased and read to aid this thirst for knowledge. The result of this has been surprising.

My interest in and admiration of the arts has developed beyond recognition and perhaps set the pathway to future posts. My desire to learn has only been encouraged by my visits to Florence. The fire within burns ever brighter as further tours and visits of the surrounding area and rest of the country are planned. As I’m starting to find out, Tuscany is more than just Florence.

July 27, 2025September 13, 2025

Uffizi Gallery, Art Museum in Florence, City in Italy

The world-renowned Uffizi Gallery is home to an extensive collection of art, ancient statues and historical artefacts. Throw in names like Vasari, Leonardo, Raphael, Caravaggio, Michelangelo, and Botticelli and it is easy to see why it ranks so highly in Italy’s attractions, coming second only to the Colosseum in Rome each year.

Construction of the Uffizi Gallery was commissioned in 1560. Although the art draws you in, I’m equally fascinated by its origins and links to the Medici family. These links are perhaps unknown to many but provide a level of intrigue. Join me as I explore its origins and the vast and expansive collection of art.

Uffizi origins

I doubt many know that the Uffizi Gallery they visit today wasn’t built to display art. In 1560 the first Grand Duke of Tuscany (Cosimo I) commissioned the building of the “Uffizi”. Its original purpose was to house the administrative and judiciary offices of Florence.

My Italian lessons continue as I find out that “Uffizi” means offices. Cosimo commissioned his favourite architect (Vasari – remember the rooms in Palazzo Vecchio, the rebuild of Palazzo Pitti and the Vasari corridor) to design them.

To build these new offices, space was needed for the huge complex. Local buildings were pulled down which included the ancient and Romanesque church, San Pier Scheraggio. After Vasari’s death in 1574 the offices were completed in 1581 by architects Buontalenti and Parigi.

Cosimo also instructed that a corridor be built linking the offices and his new residence at Palazzo Pitti. In the post regarding Ponte Vecchio, I discovered that the corridor was named after the man who constructed it – the Vasari corridor.

The corridor took just 5 months to complete and was built to celebrate the marriage between Cosimo’s son Francesco to Giovanna d’Austria in 1565. When visiting the Palazzo Vecchio, you’ll discover that the courtyard behind the main entrance was refurbished by Vasari and decorated in time for their nuptials.

Francesco (Cosimo’s eldest son) was to become the next Duke of Tuscany after his father. He ruled the grand duchy from 1574 until his death in 1587. It was Francesco who decided to set up a private gallery within the Uffizi. This was to house the vastly expanding collection of statues and other precious objects belonging to the Medici family.

The location chosen was the top floor of the east wing. The main room of this private area was the octagonal room called the Tribuna, built by Bernardo Buontalenti in 1584. The stunning room is adorned with thousands of shells on the inside of the dome.

“Uffizi” a museum

Florence is so rich in art, and this is due to one person. This is because the last remaining member of the Medici family, Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici (sister to the last male Medici Gian Gastone), signed the ‘family pact’. This was an agreement that was made with the new ruling family of Tuscany the Habsburg-Lorraine.

Anna was forward thinking; she saw the value in the art but wondered how it could attract the curiosity of foreigners. You might say she saw the future for the whole of Florence. Her stipulation in the pact was that the art and treasure collected by her family over the centuries should remain in Florence.

It was 16 years after her death that doors of the offices/gallery were opened to the public viewing under the instruction of Grand Duke Peter Leopold. So out of the original administrative offices was born the Uffizi Gallery Museum.

Adoration of the Child and archangel Gabriel

The Uffizi Gallery

Walking around the gallery is a breathtaking experience. I was immediately blown away by the incredible number of statues from Roman times. There are portraits of Agrippa, Nero, Antoninus Pius, Septimius Severus & Marcus Aurelius, to name a few. You could be easily confused, thinking you were in Rome and not Florence.

Whenever one visits a grand building, it is advisable to look up. The beautifully painted ceilings in the corridor of statues add to the majestic atmosphere. At the tops of the walls before the beautiful ceiling there is a fascinating collection of portraits. Some of the portraits look recognisable. Names on the portraits are in Italian. My Italian being non-existent, I would take a guess that some of the kings of England are on display.

The hordes kept piling in. Taking time to appreciate the display of paintings and statues was not easy nor, in the end, was it particularly enjoyable. I’m not sure when the best time would be to visit. I was sufficed with picking out bits of art and rooms that seemed to be ignored.

My fascination with the Medici family continued as I came across two portraits of the famous original members of the family – Cosimo the elder & Lorenzo the magnificent. Another name that has been discovered in these travels was Eleonora of Toledo. She also features in another painting.

Vasari Corridor

The Vasari corridor reopened at the end of 2024 after an 8-year closure. Access to the corridor is through the Gallery of Statues and Paintings. Tickets must be pre-purchased. To walk the corridor is a brilliant opportunity to follow the footsteps of the Medici family. Though bland internally it provides fascinating insight into history and unique viewing points of the city. It is approximately 750m long. The end of the corridor brings you out next to the Grand Gotto in the Boboli Gardens.

Uffizi Gallery Conclusions

Without doubt the Uffizi Gallery is a must see when visiting Florence. Though the rooms and corridors that house the art are impressive they are made so by the art that adorns them. A debate about the most impressive rooms in Florence would include mention of Palazzo Vecchio and Pitti Palace. Those in Uffizi may not be as high on the list.

That said, the collection of ancient statues is incredibly fascinating. It whetted the appetite to delve into Rome and Roman history.

The Cosimo and Vasari combine again to deliver a symbol of Florence. Though not their original plans I think everyone who visits fully appreciates the work.

So, the Uffizi can be put on a list of the great art museums around the world. The Vatican, the Louvre, the Rijksmuseum, the MET & the National Gallery, etc. could all lay claim to being the best art gallery. I will leave that debate for another day, or another post.

August 21, 2024May 12, 2025

A Tuscan Fairytale, Castello di San Fabiano, Siena, Italy

The sun is sinking in the west, its rays radiating an array of colours that light up the sky. The sound of enjoyment and the chink of glasses combine with nature’s evening song to disturb the peaceful end to the day. Each evening we both take a moment to appreciate not only nature’s final daily display but the sight of our friends and families together as one.

Whisper it very quietly, but we have a secret to share (and one we hope remains a sort of secret!). This is a place with which we fell in love the moment we saw it and now a place we will never forget, and one that will live long in the memories. This place oozes warmth, generosity and friendship. It’s almost secretly but idyllically set in the Crete Senesi region, among the clay hills south of Siena and near the Arbia River. Here lies the romantic and intimate Castello di San Fabiano.

Our fairytale gave birth to new friendships, strengthened existing ones and opened the eyes of many to our fascination with travel and history. This castle has a rich and diverse history. It takes the form of a small hamlet and like most places with a long-standing history was built around a small church of which we have proof dates to 867 AD. The small and enchanting church was a stopping place for pilgrims and is dedicated to St. Fabian, to the pope and to martyrs. There is an apse from the 9^th century, some of it may be dated to the Romanesque era, and a façade was completed in the 18^th century. I’m sure as we continue to revisit, we will spend some more time with Andrea, the present owner, and learn and explore its full history, but he did mention on a memorable night on the day after our wedding that there is a document confirming this very early date.

Between the church and the castle are the beautiful gardens that surround the castle on all sides. These charming gardens played host to our coming together, with nature in abundance and the aromas of rose bushes and lemon trees which have been planted amongst the cypress trees giving that beautiful Tuscan vibe. The castle was built to protect the nearby ford as this was one of the only passing places along the river apart from a Roman bridge a bit further downstream. The fortifications that took place meant that the towers were created to assist with communication with nearby Siena. The towers that are seen today were built at the turn of the 13^th century, and a visit to the highest accessible point is a must to sit and savour a glass of wine as the sun sets. You can see all of Siena’s skyline as the sun sets behind it and perhaps you can think about picking up the fire signals of yesteryear. The castle did see some “action” when the king of Naples army laid siege in 1409 AD. They decided that this would be a perfect post station for the long journey from Naples to Paris. It then passed into the hands of the powerful Sienese family for the next 500 or so years before changing hands a few times to be purchased by the Fiorentini family.

We can be grateful to Andrea’s father (Giovani’s grandfather) for purchasing it and to the family for their continued labour of love that they have invested and continue to take on to preserve such a charming place. Spending time with the family is an honour and privilege to learn about the place. Perhaps the castle and the surrounding countryside is a secret that is worth keeping to ourselves but we have started to share not only its location but its vibrancy on our recent big event and have been surprised to see how many accepted the invitation to come and now, perhaps, share an admiration for such a place. Words perhaps can’t describe how much this place means to us both; we hope it won’t be long until we return.

Castello di San Fabiano, Crete Senesi Gravel Ritorno, Monteroni d'Arbia, Siena, Tuscany, 53014, Italy