The next stop on my meander around Paris was a visit to The Palais Garnier Opera House. Why, you might ask, when there are more illustrious places to visit? What about the Louvre? Arc de Triomphe? Musée d’Orsay? to name but a few. My visit to the Eiffel tower led me to discover Charles Garnier. Not a household name, but it was of particular interest that he was the architect of the Palais Garnier and one of the harshest Eiffel Tower critics. I went to see if there was any justification in his words.
Building Palais Garnier
The Opera House was commissioned by Napolean III during his reign as Emperor in the second French Republic. Napolean III was the nephew of the first Emperor Napoleon I. He brought much wealth and prosperity to France through his authoritarian government. Much of the beauty of Paris that people love today is down to this member of the Bonaparte family and his prefect Baron Haussmann. These two saw the Opera House as the Jewel in their urban renewal of Paris.
A competition was opened for entries at the end of 1860 to build the largest theatre in the world. Out of 171 entries it was the design of unknown architect Charles Garnier that won the competition. 15 years were devoted to building the Opera House, which was briefly halted by the Prussian war. The war would bring an end of the Napolean III rule over France. He was exiled to Britain where he died in Chislehurst, Kent in 1873 (buried in St Michael’s Abbey, Farnborough some 15 years later), 2 years before the completion of his opera house.
And what a result. Beautiful. There is no comparison that can be made between the ugliness of the metal monstrosity to the magnificence of the Palais. There surely can only be one winner and his views are, in my opinion, justified.
Palais Garnier
Externally the building commands your immediate attention; internally it will take your breath away. Charles was clearly a well-travelled man, and he took inspiration from other eras of architecture. I’m sure there will be many more examples around the rest of Paris. The Opera house includes elements of the Renaissance, Baroque and Palladio architectural styles. The results are spell binding and fit for a king….. sorry, I mean Emperor. There are rumours that Empress Eugenie asked what style it was to which Charles replied, “Napolean III style”.
Avenue de l’Opéra
Walking down the Avenue de l’Opéra you will approach Palais Garnier. You will witness the façade on the south side of the building. The levels of detail are incredible – arches and columns perfectly and symmetrically aligned. Much can be learned from studying the façade. Of particular interest to me are gilded bronze busts of the great opera composers, Rossini, Auber, Beethoven, Mozart, Spontini, Meyerbeer & Halevy. Above them are the letters “N” and “E” for Napolean Emperor. At the top of the façade are two beautiful golden pieces – Harmony and Poetry.
Pavilion de l’Empereur
Head around to the western side of the building to the Pavilion de l’Empereur. Access is made into the opera house here. The design, though, was to provide the emperor and others with a secure and safe entry into the Opera house from their carriages. One of the main reasons for building the opera house was an attempted assassination by Italian Felice Orsini 1858 which took place on Napoleon III’s route to the old opera house. At the ticketed entrance is a statue to Charles Garnier.
Palais Garnier Grand Staircase
Stepping inside the Palais is a mesmerizing experience. The sumptuous and lavish decorations are something to behold. There is a sense of royalty, as marble, velvet, gold leaf, figures, cherubs, chandeliers, frescoes are used to opulently decorate the interior. The brilliance of Baroque architecture is on full display. There is a debate to be had I’m sure in a future post between this opera house and the rooms seen in Palazzo Vecchio and Pitti Palace in Florence, and maybe the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles.
To get to the incredible grand foyer first you pass through the sweeping steps of the grand staircase. Many a photo I’m sure has been taken on those steps. Breathtaking beauty surrounds you and good luck trying to capture that beauty without a person in the shot. Charles Garnier said it best when he proclaimed, “The Opera is the staircase”. Once you have dragged yourself away from the incredible marble staircase work your way in and out of the alcoves and network of corridors.
Grand Foyer
This is a room to rival many of the greats across Europe. Comparisons are supposedly made with the hall of mirrors at Versailles (I explored this later in this trip). I would say that comparisons could be made of the Palatine Gallery in Palazzo Pitti. Similarities between the Hall of Mirrors and the Grand Foyer are down to the use of windows and mirrors. The light pouring in adds to the architectural brilliance. The Grand Foyer was built as a meeting room for spectators during intermissions, and what a place to meet.
Impressive chandeliers gracefully compliment the beautiful foyer. Practical as well as decorative they hang from an incredible ceiling. The fresco ceiling by Paul Baudry pays homage to the history of music. The central fresco “The Triumph of Apollo” celebrates the god of music and poetry. Gilded decorations and gold adorn the walls, ceiling and columns. Neck ache is compulsory as this room is an architectural masterpiece and embodies the grandeur of the Second Republic.
Palais Garnier Summary
My opinions of the Eiffel Tower may have been controversial, but I would like to think we can all share common ground on the beauty and magnificence of the Palais Garnier. I’m not sure I will find a more beautiful building in the whole of Paris. The pictures will never do it justice; sometimes it is best to just stand and appreciate. For that reason, I would implore everyone to visit. Its lavish and opulent display seems a world away from reality.
Palais Garner is testament to the monumental achievement in architecture and design. Every detail has been thought about and account made. The grand foyer is the most impressive part of the complex. It is safe to say that I have more of an appreciation of this form of architecture than more modern structures which may be practical but lack character.
In my visit I perhaps didn’t capture the beauty of the place as well as I would have liked. This iconic venue demands a second visit. Dare to dream but a return to watch a live performance of an opera would be magical. Sadly, though, I think that I will only be able to watch a ballet here these days as the opera has moved into a newer build.
Having briefly touched on the Bonaparte family my next stop around Paris will be Hôtel des Invalides. A visit to St Michael’s Abbey, Farnborough (the photos on the internet makes it look great) is now a must!
Looks magnificent